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Old 07-21-2004, 05:55 PM   #1
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Remington 1100

Not exactly a military shotgun but I was wondering if anyone has tried the Remington 1100 competition master? Is it any good? I've been thinking of getting into 3-gun matches and this one seems interesting
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Old 07-22-2004, 06:30 AM   #2
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For competition I guess the 1100 is fine, but I wouldnt count my life on it, seen way too many jam. I have hunted mostly with pump guns and the follow up shots become very fast and instinctive with practice. If I were to go with a semi-auto, it would only be a Benelli.
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Old 07-25-2004, 06:41 PM   #3
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1100 great gun never had a jam on mine in all of my 18 years hunting with it. You have to clean it.

Just turned mine over into a IPSC standard. cycles low recoil slugs and light targets loads no problems.

Do not use a pump for competition you will get your ___ handed to you. no pump can run with a semi in ipsc comp. If your just there to have fun then uses what ever you want.
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Old 07-26-2004, 03:39 AM   #4
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I've been shooting 1100s mainly for competition trap since 1981.

It is the best of the semiauto shotguns by far. The trick is you need to get
an OLDER one, not a newer one because QC is non-existent at Remington these days. And you need to take certain proactive maintenance steps
to keep it running.

I've owned six 1100s in my life and have three currently. The first one
I bought lasted 17 years of continual, 10,000 -20,000 rounds per year
before the mag tube finally broke off of the receiver. It's barrel then lasted an additional three years before it developed a hairline crack near the locking lug extension and had to be scrapped. The bolt from that original 1100 then lasted an additional two years beyond the barrel and receiver in another gun before it developed a crack near the extractor cutout.

I will post the details of "dos" and "don'ts" that found to have worked over
the years. What to look for, what and how to lube and parts life. Gotta scoot for now!
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Old 07-26-2004, 01:24 PM   #5
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1100 PM Tips:

- Replace firing pin spring at 5,000 rds (the pin itself rarely, if ever breaks)

- Replace extractor at 10,000 rds

- Replace barrel seal (rubber "O" ring at 5,000 rds)

- Lube rails where link ("tuning fork") rides

- Inspect link for wear, stress, burrs, etc. (the new ones are made of powdered metal and are NOT durable) The old ones were carbon steel
and lasted longer if you lubed them and dressed any burrs.

(IMPORTANT: NEVER explore the inside of the receiver with your fingers!
You WILL get sliced open BADLY even with rags wrapped around your hand) Use a toothbrush, needle nose pliers, etc.)

If possible, replace "forend support" (the little part that slides on the action bars and forms a "bushing" between the bottom underside of the bbl near the chamber and the mag tube) with an old fashioned MACHINED
steel (flat one). These NEVER break. The stamped ones break as soon as
2-3000 rds and usually break off on one side, causing jams and gouged
magazine tubes

NEVER use abrasive cleaners on the magazine tube to clean carbon buildup. This is thin sheet metal, you WILL eventually wear away the O.D.
of the tube causing irrepairable gas loss and functioning problems

NEVER use plumber "O" rings as substitutes for the original Remington part. The original is designed to withstand hot gasses. Plumber rings are not.

Replace the action spring (inside the stock about every 10,000 rounds) or
once per year if you shoot actively with less than that (some people even suggest 5,000) I've gotten by with 10,000 for 22 years.

The action spring should be at least 14-1/2" long once it has been sitting
inside the gun. Springs shorter than that are losing their tension and RESISTANCE, which would allow the back of the bolt to impact the rear of
the receiver HARD accelerating irrepairable wear.

Inspect the trigger (fire control). Replace worn, bent carrier latch, carrier
dog and pin. This will insure good functioning.

Buy a feed latch stake (from either Brownells or from
-there is an advertiser in there) and if you are going to beat the guts of the gun up, or if the feed latch pops out or protrudes from one corner; it
is time to re-stake the feed latch in the receiver. Four staking whacks; two above and two below the latch's width done alternately (1 top, 1 bottom and so forth) will stake that latch into place for the lifetime of the receiver.

Ensure the mag tube cap is tight. This helps keep vibration down and reduces the impact of the top of the barrel extension from contacting the
inside of the receiver during recoil.

LUBE the top, exterior surface of the barrel extension with a gel like grease. It does three things: 1. makes for easier insertion and removal.
2. it forms a "gel pac" barrier between the top, outside surface of the barrel extension and the top, inner underside of the receiver - again reducing wear. (you'll notice very little bluing ever comes off the top
of the barrel extension when you do this - indicating little or no metal to metal contact.

DO NOT get grease or lube inside the chamber area (obviously)

At about 100,000 rounds some less, some more, replace the locking lug
(the floppy piece that rides on top of the bolt that engages a recess in the barrel extension) with one marked "L". This is a longer locking lug that will
buy the barrel another 50,000 o so rounds. As the locking lug recess and lug itself wears away, you're getting more movement, less secure lockup
and a "peening" effect inside the locking lug recess (that will accelerate barrel cracking)

Heavily used and/or poorly maintained barrels may be cracked. Usually
it is a hairline crack near the front edge of the locking lug recess. Older
barrels have obvious stress relief curved shape cuts in this area to prevent that. Newer barrels have less obvious cuts (apart from being pot
luck on shooting straight and having poorly honed bores and chambers that hold dirt in grooves for years)

As receiver rails wear down, this allows the link more slop in in its travel and contributes to link breakage (usually at the rear most legs that get squeezed together into the retaining cup at the back of the receiver).
That's why it's important to lube rails and inspect links.

Rings Piston/Piston seal. If you can find a nice set of old ones (carbon steel) from the 60s and 70s USE it. Lube to prevent rust. Also, inspect the gas cylinder area inside barrel for "ridges". These need to be dressed
out to prevent the rings from "snagging" on them which can "derail" the whole action bar "train" moving forward.

The ridges are caused by: Using steel wool and/or other abrasives on the magazine tube noted above which allows the rings to "wobble" in their travel. Or, just heavy use with no replacement.

If you are considering combat matches with an 1100; replace the cheesy
factory follower with a solid aftermarket part - like the one from Choate
Industries, or if you're really lucky: use a 1960s 1100/870 steel beveled cup magazine spring follower. They prevent binding. Just lube it to prevent rust.

NOTE: recent 1100's have a different magazine cap assembly (it's the 11-87 version) and there are grooves inside the magazine tube that accomodate "lugs" or ears on the sides of the new followers.

Again, use the old ones if you can find them.

The 11-87 is 92% interchangeable with the 1100. You should NOT open up the extractor notch in the bolt and barrel of an 1100 to accomodate the newer 11-87 style extractor (which is 30/1000ths thicker) but lasts no
more than the old one. Remington made that change to justify making a whole new gun, not to enhance reliability. NEW 1100s are actually 1100/11-87 "HYBRIDS" using the '87s thicker extractor, mag tube and cap system and forend. Barrels are NOT interchangeable between the two from the factory, but many have been "bubb-ad" to fit. Not recommended

There were over Three million of the old 1100s made. Field guns with light
use are plentiful and cheap to make a base line "platform"

The 1100, properly maintained as outlined above will outlast the fancier, prettier, aluminum alloy receiver guns, like Berettas - all of which are nice
guns, but meant strictly for field carry. These guns kick harder (and more
upwards) between follow up shots. The Remington stays on target.

Hope that helps

Many of the tips were compiled through years of association with old Remington 'smiths and reps back when DuPont owned the company and were shared with me and other shooters over the years.

Trust me, those guys knew their stuff!
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Old 07-27-2004, 04:49 PM   #6
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I know what i a m printing, thanks for the info.

I dont know how old my 1100 is. I bought it used when i was 12. I pushing 31 now. Barrel has a small pit. one rust spot and a heck of a scrath from hunting.

I always greased the mag tube (out side) as well as the action rails bolt barrel area you talked about, rest was oiled. I only used hoppes to clean the gun with maybe a once a year rem bore to remove plastic wadding.
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Old 07-28-2004, 03:24 AM   #7
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 163
Here's a rough way to guage when your 1100 was made:

Serial # first letter prefix: L, M, N, (I haven't seen "O") P (haven't seen a
"Q" ) and most recently: R

very early 1960s guns had no letter prefix

L prefix roughly early to mid 70s; M; late 70's early 80s N; early 1980s;
P: mid 80s to about 1986/87

R: current (or really recently made)

late 80s (after 87) 1100 dropped except for small guage guns when 11-87
was introduced.

Suffix letter at end of serial # denotes guage : V =12 guage; M = 12 ga 3" magnum

receiver details:

earlier 1100s have a small part of the receiver roll mark "artwork"
located just above the stress relief cut out in the back of the receiver.
(the right hand side of the receiver)

post 1977 models (the year Remington introduced LT-20 frames for 20 ga)
they compressed "shrunk" the roll mark on the receiver on the left hand "clean" side of the receiver.

The earliest 1100s have wooden magazine plugs; beveled carbon steel
mag spring followers; flat machined barrel supports and a different bolt
handle. The earlier bolt handles have a recess for a ball bearing on the flat
underside of the "stem". The "newer" bolt handles have a square notch cut into the back of the stem, but also have the ball bearing recess, too (in case the handle is used in an action bar assembly from an older 1100)

Post 1987 firing pin springs are "pre compressed" in the middle to last longer. When firing pin springs do break, they usually break right in the middle and the coils look like interlaced fingers. Put a drop of oil on the middle of the spring during cleaning.

Current generation 1100s are 11-87 hybrids.

Trap barrels from 1990-2000 are overbored to .740" and must use choke tubes expressly meant for those barrels (these tubes are marked: "trap full; trap extra full and trap super full)

Beginning in 2000, new trap barrels went to a .727" bore diameter and choke tubes were changed to: "singles: .027; light handicap: .034" and long handicap: .041" (relates to degrees of choke constriction)
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Old 07-28-2004, 05:31 AM   #8
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If serial nos. are anythig like drafting standards generrally the letters "I, O, Q, S, X, Z," (mil-std-100 and asme y14.100) are ommited from use as they can be misunderstood to be either number or a letter.
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Old 07-28-2004, 06:12 AM   #9
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My 1100, had a metal follower, wodd mag plug. I do not recall the serial no., but i will check it when i get home. The stock was different from the on I replaced it with. Under the buttplate there were two holes drilled one is for the stock bolt, recoil spring, the other was just hollow it was above.

I am thinking I have a early 1100.

recoil spring looks easy enough to replace, I should replace it just to be on the safe side.
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Old 07-28-2004, 01:16 PM   #10
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Wooden plug means a '60s gun (unless someone just happened to slip in a wooden plug that was on hand to go duck hunting) Beveled cup, metal follower means 60s gun, too. (I doubt someone changed that on purpose and added a wood plug, too since Remington has been using bright green plastic ones for 25-30 years)

Check your action bar where the bolt sits: does it have a ball bearing on the bottom to engage a recess in the bolt handle? (60s gun/early 70s gun if so) The newer ones have the ball bearing wedged in the back to engage a notch cut in the rear edge of the bolt handle. Just pull the bolt handle out-if it only has the dimple on the stem and no notch, it's an old one.
(if it's an old bolt handle in a newer styled action bar - it WON'T lock in place)

Be careful replacing the mag spring. You will need a large flat screwdriver
to hold pressue against the retainer while simultanously drifting out the retainer pin. Sometimes it's best done in a vice, or with someone to help.
That spring will whip with a lot more force than the mag tube spring.
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Old 07-28-2004, 06:34 PM   #11
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L series serial no. and the handle only has a detent in it for the ball bearing.

I know what your saying on action springs. I have sent my fair share of ejectors on M1 Garands and plugs from 1911s down range.

Went to the gunstore to today, 3 1100 all used 30", 28" and what i think is a 28 (could be 26 it was in the back room) non vent rib all around 300. not bad.
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Old 07-29-2004, 03:29 AM   #12
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Field grade 1100s can be a heck of a bargain. If inspected carefully for
wear/abuse - some have been carried alot and shot very little!

A lot of trap and skeet 1100s look pretty outside because shooters
wipe them down, but inside there's a greater chance of getting one
with beaten up receivers and rails, etc.

Hunting guns are often overlooked.

The old fixed choke barrels Remington used to make all shoot straight, too! They pattern hard, smoke the crap out of targets. They do tend to
shoot a bit on the flat side, but still better than the junk they make today.
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Old 07-29-2004, 03:32 AM   #13
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You have an older 1100. The bolt handle will only lock into place with
the old style action bar.

Check your action bar, too. I bet you have the milled flat forend support!

If you do - you're in luck. The milled forend supports never break! Just
keep a little oil on it where it rubs.
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Old 07-29-2004, 03:44 AM   #14
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milled flat forend support, thats the part that slides along the action bars?

I never knew wtf it was used for it is a milled piece.

Shotgun is off to the Smith right now. I am having a easyloader installed for I don't have time to file it to fit check for function all by Sunday moring. Only thing the smith is also my compention, but he is cool told me no problem, he will have it fit for Sat for me. Just as long as Brownells gets the parts in on time.

I like grease better than oil on the action bars, nothing special just some standard red wheel bearing grease.
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Old 07-29-2004, 01:35 PM   #15
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Yes. The little piece that slides up and down the action bars. It actually
anchors itself right up against the front edge of the receiver when installed.

Actually, the gun will work without it - however, like a bushing on a
Gov't .45, you need it for accuracy - w/o it the gun will throw patterns
all over creation.

It's really a form of bushing. It indexes the lower part of the barrel - gives it something to rest itself on.

You can tell the newer ones easily. They're very cheap looking - a curved
piece of thin, stamped metal. Those break all the time. Like - 2,500 rounds give or take 500. They're easy to replace, you just push down w/ your thumb and slide the puppy right off the back end of the action bar.

The new ones really do suk. They chip; they'll break off one side of the "tab" that contacts the barrel and the piece might get wedged between
action bar and magazine tube not only causing a jam, but galling the mag tube. Other times, the broken piece finds its way into the trigger mechanism or gets wedged inside the receiver somewhere screwing up

The one thing I don't understand about the Remington 1100: Why doesn't someone out there make GOOD QUALITY replacement parts for the high
wear and tear items?

I mean, we have them for .45s, for ARs, M-1As, AKs, 10/22s, etc.

Why not a gun whose design is now over 40 years old and exceeding
six million in production?

It can't be a patent infringement now? The 1100 was designed in 1963.

If a good parts maker is reading/listening - please take note!
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Old 11-22-2017, 07:26 AM   #16
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I'm sorry I have to revive this necro thread, but I've not found a resource on the net with people in it that know so much about the 1100, and I just inherited my grandfather's collection of firearms this year after he passed away. I am restoring a few of them so that I can use them for hunting.

My question is regarding a 1966 12g 1100; The marking on the left side of the barrel is NKN, and the serial number has no prefix, and ends in the letter V. After doing some research, I have come to the conclusion that this is probably a 1966 1100 made in April. Am I correct?

If so, I am having a hard time tracking down synthetic replacement stocks/forend for it. I can't find a clear answer for this question - Can I use post 1986 1100 or 11-87 stocks and forends for my gun, and is it just a matter of the detent on the forend?

Thanks for any info you guys can provide!
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Old 11-22-2017, 08:15 AM   #17
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Try Nurmich aka Gun Parts Corp.
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Old 11-28-2017, 10:50 AM   #18
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Two connected items: if you're planning on using the 1100/11-87 for competition use, you definately need to have a shell carrier with the competition carrier release button. This is much longer than the standard button and easily contacted by a shell in normal loading. This eliminates the need for the tuning fork add on carrier release widget being sold separately and the danger of impaling yourself with it.

The competition carrier is available from Midway and is usually a drop in. Be very, very careful to avoid flying parts when installing it. I've got the cap for one of the springs (hammer?) somewhere in the shop.
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