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Old 11-18-2004, 06:18 AM   #1
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 181

I've tried to find a consensus about this. Some say the rifle should be detail stripped and cleaned. Some say rinse with Windex or ammonia at the range. Others have said that WWII ammo was all corrosive and GI Bore Cleaner took care of any troubles.
My procedure is
1. pour a bit of water thru from the chamber while at the range
2. at home, swab the barrel with windex, spray the bolt face with windex
3. scrub the barrel with bore cleaner, wipe the bolt face with it
4. muzzle down, pull the plug and hose the gas cyl with brake cleaner
5. lightly oil the bolt face and the barrel
I'm not making recommendations, just looking for advice. Anyone got ideas? Is there a problem with my procedure?
sevenL4 is offline  
Old 11-18-2004, 07:17 AM   #2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Satellite Beach, Florida
Posts: 1,913
Of course you shoul dclean and neutralize as soon as possible.

Warm sopay water works as does windex.

Only thing about your procedure is that I did not see any of your gas system cleaned. You might want to do that too.
Cylinder, plug and lock are stainless, and button at end of oprod is stainless. But stainless needs some love too....

Also if you've seen enough Op-Rods, just behind the button there is often some pitting. This is from gas that has passed the button in the cylinder and has not been cleaned.

Good luck, and have fun!

OnTargetFL is offline  
Old 11-18-2004, 07:28 PM   #3
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ontario, Commiefornia
Posts: 44
When cleaning after corrosive ammo treat the firearm as if it was a muzzle loader ie you are shooting with black powder. The corrosive part in the ammo is caused by salts and salts will disolve readily in H20 based solvents (water). Although ammonia is a solvent and will disolve some salts it will not disolve all of them. Acetone will also disolve salts, in fact all of them but it is hard on your stock finish. Clean everything! Soak everylhing (everything metal anyway)! Brush clean everything! I use hot soapy water to clean with and rinse with hot clean water. After the hot rinse I let it air dry and then clean/lube using "normal" bore cleaners or CLP.

Oh -- I carry home mixed Eds Red in the field and use it to clean all my firearms. It works great!

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Old 11-19-2004, 04:45 AM   #4
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 176
I normally carry a bottle of windex with me when I go to the range and plan on using corrosive ammo. Once I've completed shooting, I pour the windex down the barrel before putting it away. Once I get home, I completely tear the rifle down and proceed with my normal cleaning procedure...which is to soak all the metal parts in hot water and oiling it good once things dry up.
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Old 11-19-2004, 06:02 AM   #5
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 181
One thing I left out...I don't want to remove the action from the stock. It's been Acra-Glassed and I really have to wrestle with it to field strip it.
So, with that established, do you think my procedure will suffice to keep the rifle from harm?
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Old 11-19-2004, 06:34 AM   #6
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Satellite Beach, Florida
Posts: 1,913
I still think you should clean your gas system, even though they were designed stainless to "resist" corrosion. Remember, in battle and with infinite replacement parts and rifles, you may tolerate certain abuses that you and I as civilian collector/shooters will not.

I always use Warm soapy water.... Windex is fine for the range.
Think about this.... if you disolve the salts, but don't take the solution away.... what happens to the salts when the solution dries? It is put back wherever it happens to be when the solution dries....
So if you use windex, use lots and let it runn off somewhere.
If soapy water, that is not a problem.

I've been shooting Mausers and US military firearms using ammo with corrosive primers since the 60's.... never lost a gun or bore to corrosion.

Of course..... if it were my rifle, and it was bedded, and if I didn't want to strip it for a proper cleaning. I would not shoot corrosive ammunition. I would save the corrosive ammo for the rifles that I could strip and care for properly.

Just my opinion.

Good luck,

OnTargetFL is offline  
Old 11-19-2004, 09:03 AM   #7
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 55
Remember also that if you have an original WW2 dated barrel it will (unless re-arsenaled) have no square of chrome around the gas port. This area was known to pit when using corrosive ammo and not dismounting the gas cylinder to get at it for cleaning. The USGI manual says to take a block of wood and whack the gas cylinder forward to take it off. The bad part was that excessive mounting and dismounting the gas cylinder makes it wobbly on the barrel. If you have a post-war barrel the chrome allows a lot more leeway in not taking it off for cleaning that area, as you can just take off the lock and screw and clean the cylinder bore.

P.S.- WW2 bore cleaner works fine. I believe that even 60s and 70s MIL-C-372 bore cleaner will work because they were using WW2 date corrosive ammo (especially 50 cal) well past Vietnam. Though I can't guarantee this, you will note that USGI manuals for the Garand etc. into the 60s do not mention looking at the dates of ammunition to determine corrosive/non corrosive and just say to use rifle bore cleaner.
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