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Old 10-18-2004, 12:55 PM   #1
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 76
Home parkerizing questions

I just received my 1st Rack Grade M1 and want to use it as a learning platform.

I am planning on ordering the parkerizing kit from http://www.calvan.com

It appears the process is pretty straightforward, but I do have a question about doing the barrel.

What would be the best way to "plug" the barrel to keep the solution out of it.

I was considering using cork at the muzzle, but am not sure how to do the chamber....

Secondly, how can I keep the solution off of other areas that can't be "plugged"??? IE: gas hole, etc.

Any info/tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2004, 01:57 PM   #2
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 11
I have heard of people using toothpicks in the gas hole on the barrell. And also the same for the chamber and the muzzle yes people use corks.
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Old 10-18-2004, 02:29 PM   #3
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,099
Home parkerizing kit

If you're friendly with someone who works in a auto parts store, the little plastic plugs that they use to plug the ports of auto master cylinders work great !! HTH

Semper Fi !!
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Old 10-18-2004, 02:49 PM   #4
JAS
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Fremont, Ohio 13.6 miles from the north store
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I have done three M-1's now and here is what I do. I got black rubber "corks" at the hardware store. I wet them and the chamber and bore and twist and push them in till they are in good and snug. As for the gas port hole, I wrap that with good quality 3M black electrical tape about three layers. I then use two small plastic electrical ties around the tape. For metal preparation I have a bead blasting cabinet and 5 hp. compressor. I use #10 glass beads. Practice on some small parts first to get your process down pat. One of the best things to play with are the en bloc clips. I didn't buy anyone's kit. I just bought a bottle of Radacy zinc phosphate concentrate and started experimenting with an electric hot plate, a stainless steel 3 quart pot, and a cooking thermometer. When I felt confident enough to tackle a reciever and barrel, I bought a stainless steel tank from Brownells. I bought two more matching hot plates at Walmart for like $8.95 each and two more thermometers. I place the tank across the three hot plates and use the thermometers to get everything evened out. I'll try to post a picture of some of my results.
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Old 10-18-2004, 03:32 PM   #5
JAS
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Fremont, Ohio 13.6 miles from the north store
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[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/JimScharf/Dscf0480.jpg[/img]
The Springfield was my first attempt.
The HRA was second.
Both were Greek rack grade beaters.
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Old 10-18-2004, 03:45 PM   #6
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Nice work. I really like the color on the SA.
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Old 10-18-2004, 03:55 PM   #7
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 436
JAS,
I noticed the wood stocks in one of your other postings. Between those and your parkerizing, it looks like you got it all down pat. Real impressive stuff.
BT
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Old 10-18-2004, 05:32 PM   #8
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 215
JAS. Those are two really beautiful rifles. You should be proud of yourself for what you have accomplished. Great job!

Cannoncocker
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Old 10-18-2004, 06:47 PM   #9
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"...using cork..." No. Just lightly whack a cast into the muzzle(not all the way in. Just enough to stay there.) and put an empty case in the chamber. Remember ALL springs must come out.
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