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Old 12-28-2006, 03:34 PM   #1
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 79
Parkerizing Help

Hey all you guys that do parkerizing.Do you just put the parts in the pan and lay them on the bottom,and flip them once or twice?Or do you suspend them somehow?How do you suspend a barreled receiver?Can anyone post pictures of parts in action?Thanks for your comments.
scoutII is offline  
Old 12-28-2006, 04:36 PM   #2
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 220
When I parkerize my parts, I try and suspend them in the solution without touching the parkerizing tank. There are different ways to do this like using bailing wire to make stands and small hooks to hang the parts. Small parts like screws and pins can be placed in a stainless basket and stirred around a little. Just know how you are going to do it before you start. You will have to experiment a little to see what works best for you.
Steve12 is offline  
Old 12-28-2006, 06:31 PM   #3
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 141
The whole process of sandblasting and park'ing to me is stressfull enough without worrying about suspending every little part. I've done a boatload of parts and they look OK to me. My biggist(sp) concern it "tired" park that doesn't turn out right, color wise. Just turn them like you would do flapjacks.
jerryjeff is offline  
Old 12-28-2006, 11:25 PM   #4
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 455
For small parts like pins and screws, I use a SS tea basket and just swirl it around from time to time.

For internal parts I just let them sit on the bottom and like above, flip them from time to time. I am not real concerned about how the park turns out--just as long as they are parked.

For external parts like butt plates, sights, stock hardware I may suspend the pars and I also have a tray that sit up off the bottom that parts may sit in.

For receivers I suspend.

I had better results when the solution is to temp., turn the heat on my electric heating plate on low so there is no bubbling of the solution and keep the park solution in a slow motion aroung the parts. Get the temp on park up to the high end (200 degrees) and even if it cools to 180 or less you should be OK. This is most likely this best suggestion I can give you from my experience.

Receivers are the hardest since more surface area show the most defects. I have reparked receivers and butt plates as many as 3 times to get the look I wanted but most of the time one dip works.

Barrels I put down pieces of wire on the bottom of the tank and use the wire to "roll the barrel" up and back in the tank. My heating plate just will not heat up 3 gallons of solution to temp I need for my barreled-receiver tank in the winter time to suspend a barrel in the tank due to the fact I am working with just one 15 amp outside outlet. I have to use less solution (1.5 gallons) so I had to be creative.

Bead blaster with very fine glass beads is worth the money. My parking improved greatly when I got one.

Receivers, outside metal--always new park. Internal small parts--old solution works fine.

Zinc park seems to be the most forgiving for me. Come to think about it I have never had to repark when I have used zinc park. Maybe I have been lucky???

The black mag. park seems to show the defects or have more defects for me and you may have to repark when using it. I like the balck mag to hide a rough surface on a part or a grade C receiver that had surface rust which had to be blasted off. The large crystals of the mag help blend the surface. My ugly duckling garand has mag park and looks pretty good after I tried parking it the second time. But I had a friends old 1911 frame he wanted a black park on and I had to bead blast and park that sucker 3 times to get it to look right.

I like the look of zinc over mag by the way--just me.

I bought a deep fat fryer from wal-mart and use mobil-one syntheic oil for a hot dip (275-300 degrees) after I have parked parts to drive off any water from the parking process. When the bubbles are gone, so is the water. Great way to treat parts that you are going to store in ammo cans, plastic bags, or part bins by the way. An old pot with mobil-one synthetic or the dark metal cutting oil with sulfur will work just as well.

Hope this was of help but your own experience will show you the way.
Maxamillion is offline  
Old 12-28-2006, 11:31 PM   #5
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,296
I suspend the smaller parts by "hooks" made from thin aluminum tubing. The one receiver I've done I let it sit on the bottom but lifted it every minute or less. Stirring the whole solution frequently is needed also. This is to keep "fresh" solution next to your parts.

LtBlue425 is offline  

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