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Old 06-13-2006, 07:49 AM   #1
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Fiebings/Chestnut Ridge

I am planning on redoing a Birch stock. I read somewhere on this forum that Fiebings Brown leather dye was essentially the same as the Chestnut Ridge walnut stain.
Which Fiebings?? The Medium Brown or the Dark Brown??
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Old 06-13-2006, 07:59 AM   #2
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Doesn't matter. Either will turn a light colored wood like birch fire engine red. If you want a red stock, use CR or the fiebing's dye. If you don't want a red stock, use something else.
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Old 06-13-2006, 08:33 AM   #3
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I actually want the red tint on my Birch, I think it looks good. Since I can get the Fiebings easily here, I wanted to make sure before I got it.
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Old 06-13-2006, 09:09 AM   #4
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That's the point - you won't get a red tint, you'll get RED.

http://www.firemission.com/garand/red/
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Old 06-13-2006, 09:30 AM   #5
 
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Sounds like you're trying to make a birch stock look like walnut. It's pretty hard to do, but you might try the Dark Walnut Gunstock Stain from Gale Lock Co. It is available from Brownell's. If you want a red tint, try mixing some Fiebings dark brown with it. You will have to experiment since all wood is different.
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Old 06-13-2006, 09:44 AM   #6
 
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Youcanmute that red

If you didn't seal that birch stock with poly, then you can still mute that red color with some dark brown Fiebings or some walnut Gel Stain from Minwax. Either will tone that color down and leave a walnut color finish much more appealing to those used to Garand walnut stocks.
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Old 06-13-2006, 03:24 PM   #7
 
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Here's a set of birch I did with a 50/50 mix of Fiebings Medium Brown and denatured alcohol. Full strength is not good but I won't get into that story.

This one came out more orangish with a reddish tint.

In the FWIW department....even though it's all birch each piece of wood "took" the stain differently. It took about 3 days of "adjustments" to get them to match but it was worth it.

[img]http://www.fototime.com/D8408781D16129A/standard.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.fototime.com/987E936C0ED7781/standard.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.fototime.com/40C6353BF2BDAC7/standard.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.fototime.com/73DEFBEF01C9BE6/standard.jpg[/img]

Here's the same solution on walnut.

[img]http://www.fototime.com/BCB2CC7D09FCDD1/standard.jpg[/img]
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Old 06-13-2006, 04:11 PM   #8
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Ltblue, did you put the stain on raw wood, or did you do as some suggest and put a coat of BLO first and then stain???
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Old 06-13-2006, 04:16 PM   #9
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Put at LEAST one coat of BLO on it first. Dry wood sucks it up like a sponge, literally. Doesn't matter if it walnut, birch, or greek-ugly. Ask me how I know
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Old 06-13-2006, 04:59 PM   #10
 
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The two stocks above had stain on dry wood followed by Minwax Poly Wipe-On.

Sometimes I'll use a coat or two of BLO followed by a couple coats of Poly Wipe-On. Just depends on the look I'm going for.
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Old 06-13-2006, 05:12 PM   #11
 
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This one was strictly BLO which was vigorously handrubbed onto the wood to heat up the BLO to give it a little sheen. It's a GAW and I didn't want to put any other type finish on it.

[img]http://www.fototime.com/DA8424F25EC4E32/standard.jpg[/img]


Here's one that I did the combo BLO and Wipe-On Poly. Nice color and a matte sheen.

[img]http://www.fototime.com/A62A551F0C2D6F7/standard.jpg[/img]
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Old 06-13-2006, 06:26 PM   #12
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Well, I have a Tiger striped Birch stock on the way, (I hope it gets here eventually). I can't quite decide how to finish it. I am leaning toward the reddish look I have seen on some of the Birch stocks. I really like that. So I am trying to get ideas.
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Old 06-14-2006, 03:50 PM   #13
 
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This stock has a thin colat of Fiebings dark brown and then several coats of 100% tung oil. I kind of like the color.
[img]http://www.fototime.com/5F86F19FF060090/standard.jpg[/img]
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Old 06-14-2006, 04:33 PM   #14
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I gave this one a washcoat of Chestnut Ridge Stain. I diluted the stain even more with denatured alcohol...about 1:1.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/tnbackpacker/Garand/birchSA/m1birchc007a.jpg[/img]
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Old 06-14-2006, 04:35 PM   #15
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tnbackpacker, that is about what I am looking for. Was that straight to the bare wood, or did you have an undercoat of something?
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Old 06-14-2006, 05:33 PM   #16
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Years ago when I was also still doing custom leather work I was in sudden need of some wood stain, and in desperation I tries some Tandy Leather Company water-based leather dye.

Turns out, this makes better wood stains than any wood stain I ever saw, so I stopped buying wood stains and used the water-based leather dye.

By buying Brown, Cordovan, Orange, Russet, Yellow and several others, I could blend the dyes to get just about any color I wanted, including getting exact matches with original stains.

Using these dyes, I was able to make colors ranging from Colt revolver grip red, to Pre-1965 Winchester red, to Russian AK-47 red, to AK-74 orange, to M1 brown, and about anything else I needed.

Using dark brown and thinned black, I could even apply fake grain to the wood to help cover defects.

As an added advantage, you can thin the dye with alcohol to a thin tint, and apply very light coats so you don't get too dark a color.

Additionally, these dyes penetrate oily or hard wood better than any oil-based stain.
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Old 06-14-2006, 05:36 PM   #17
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That was straight to bare wood. I had already stripped the old finish with acetone.

If you try it and it turns out darker than you like, just wipe it down with pure denatured alcohol to take out some of the stain you've just added.

It's been a while since I've finished that one, I may have done just that...wiped it down with just alcohol after putting on a diluted coat. The result was just the barest hint of color.
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