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Old 05-04-2006, 05:30 PM   #1
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 111
Hammer Spring Install?

Got a new spring set from ORION7. Everything went in fine with exception of the hammer spring. The new one is 3/16" longer than the old one and I am having a hard time installing it. Whats the secret?
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Old 05-04-2006, 05:47 PM   #2
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I use one of these rubber jawed clamps. There are several makers out there. The original design was by the Vice-Grip company but now I see they are marketed under the Irwin name. The one in the photo is an imported copy but they all will work the same. Position the parts as close as possible and gently apply pressure to the clamp by squeezing the grip. This works so well it is amazing.
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v36/Oryguner/Garands/E-ZAssembly.jpg[/img]
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Old 05-04-2006, 05:52 PM   #3
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Dang, what a great idea!

Oh, the pain I've put my poor hands through holding everything together while trying to get that @#$%@#$ pin in.
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Old 05-05-2006, 02:47 AM   #4
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Quag, I made a small leather cover for my thumb to push the backside of the trigger/sear forward. Works good.

BTW, proper hammer-spring length is 2-3/8th." some of the new 'extra-power' springs are longer and it takes two men and a large boy to install them. This is why I only use USGI unissued hammer-springs. Plus, if you have a properly functioning Garand with good internals, you don't need 'extra-power' springs. Actually, they're detrimental to a rifle as they accelerate wear.

AFAIC, it's better to use good,servicable parts than to try to make up for it with these extra-power springs. Guys, you don't have to force these rifles to work, just know how to examine and judge the servicability of parts.

FWIW, increasing reliability at the cost of accelerating parts wear at 50-75% isn't very smart.
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Old 05-05-2006, 07:07 AM   #5
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Get one of these clamps and try it Quag, then you will "really" be impressed. Get the parts in place, a few easy squeezes on the clamp, the holes line up perfectly and the pin can just drop in. Takes only seconds. Works on M14 trigger groups just as well. Rubber jaws don't slip and won't mar the parkerizing.
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Old 05-05-2006, 07:14 AM   #6
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Orygunner, I got a couple sets of those at home in one of the toolboxes, I'll give them a try. Never thought of that!!!
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Old 05-05-2006, 08:42 AM   #7
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
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FWIW

Garand tested his trigger group to see how fast it was.

Can't put my hands on the book right now, but the M1 had the fastest lock speed of any service rifle in existance. Wht even try to improve on perfection?

Since the operating rod has to over come the 'weight' of the hammer spring, and many other forces, on its travel backwards to eject the case of the round just fired, and must travel far enough back to pick up a new round for the return trip when closing, do you think the increased load you just added with the 'high speed' spring just might keep it all from working???? Can you spell 'short-cycle'?

IMHO keep your springs stock
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Old 05-05-2006, 01:33 PM   #8
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Scot
FWIW

Garand tested his trigger group to see how fast it was.

Can't put my hands on the book right now, but the M1 had the fastest lock speed of any service rifle in existance. Wht even try to improve on perfection?

Since the operating rod has to over come the 'weight' of the hammer spring, and many other forces, on its travel backwards to eject the case of the round just fired, and must travel far enough back to pick up a new round for the return trip when closing, do you think the increased load you just added with the 'high speed' spring just might keep it all from working???? Can you spell 'short-cycle'?

IMHO keep your springs stock
GOOD POINT !!

Semper Fi !!
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Old 05-05-2006, 07:12 PM   #9
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 111
Hey guys, this is a standard GI spring. My old spring measured 2-1/16" the new one 2-5/16". I agree with you all, there is no need for an extra strong hammer spring, this one is plenty strong as is.
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