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Old 02-07-2006, 03:24 AM   #1
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
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MI Project

I am very close to starting an M1 project. I am not totally sure of what option to go with. I want to build a shooter rifle that I can use in competition. I am not concerned about stock wear or barrel wear, as I plan to buy a Criterion barrel and a CMP stock set from the CMP. I already have a price from my gunsmith on re-parking the gun and putting everything together. From a price standpoint should I buy a rack grade and toss the barrel and stock? Should I buy a woodless dane and buy the metal work for the stock? Should I buy a stripped receiver and start from scratch? I am leaning to going with the rack grade, but I am looking for advice on what is the best way to go.
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Old 02-07-2006, 03:54 AM   #2
 
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i am not expert to say they least. but if you have the parts all ready then go for it. but if you don't the parts will cost you more peice by peice to get all of them. a op-rod will get you for at least $75, bolt $30 to $50. and the rest as you can?? i did this and i spent more on parts and still need the bolt, and have more then a field grade would have cost and i still have to put it together. but buying parts you can take your time and look for great ones, or like i did and got them in a hurry to get her ready to shoot? and this all happen because i was given a 5-44 barrel in pretty good shape. a buddy is makeing a close to NM and took apart a Garand hes had for a while. so i used his barrel to make him a barrel clamp. and let keep the barrel since he didn't want it.
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Old 02-07-2006, 03:59 AM   #3
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
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Buy a woodless Dane. You are replacing the barrel and getting a stock from CMP so why pay for a rack grade?
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Old 02-07-2006, 04:45 AM   #4
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
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M1 project

I checked with Numrich gun parts. By the time I buy all the metal parts needed for the stock, and pay shipping, I am the same price as the rack grade if I go the woodless Dane route.
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Old 02-07-2006, 07:54 AM   #5
JAS
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Fremont, Ohio 13.6 miles from the north store
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Safari,
If you are in Troy, Michigan then you really need to go to the CMP north store and hand pick. It will be worth your while. A rack grade rifle is probably a good idea because you get the stock metal parts with the rifle. The rack grade rifles can be really great deals for what you are planning to do, but there are potential pitfalls. By hand picking at the north store you can look for a few specific details that will make your build go smoother:
1.) I wouldn't even look at the barrels since you are going to replace it.
2.) Same with the wood.
3.) Run the elevation knob up and down several clicks. You want to feel and hear sharp clicks. If not, then either the tooth on the knob or the serrations on the receiver are worn, pass it up.
4.) Look closely at the lower inside edge of the op-rod track on the receiver. You want a clean, square, sharp edge. If it is rounded or beveled, go on to the next rifle.
5.) Inspect the surfaces in and leading up to the bolt locking grooves in the receiver. They should be smooth and show no chips or dings. Any dings in the radius leading into locking grooves mean that the rifle has probably slam fired at one time or another.
6.) Inspect the face of the bolt for two things. First, you want no pitting or roughness. And second look closely at the firing pin hole. It should be nice and round, not ovaled in any way, and it should be just slightly larger than the firing pin.
7.) For a John C. Garand match rifle I would want a stamped trigger guard. The milled guard may look cooler, but the stamped guard is easier to bend for adjustment.
8.) Darker gas cylinders are usually a better bet than lighter ones. If the finish is worn off the outside, the insides may be just as worn.
9.) Look the stock metal over. After all that is why you are buying a rack grade instead of a woodless. Try to find one with a butt plate that still has most of it's checkering.

Imagine having all of those things above fall together in a luck of the draw mail order racker from Anniston. But believe it or not, once you decide that the barrel and wood are not important, there are almost always a few rackers at the north store that will satisfy all of the above.
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Old 02-07-2006, 09:08 AM   #6
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 157
Re: M1 project

Quote:
I checked with Numrich gun parts. By the time I buy all the metal parts needed for the stock, and pay shipping, I am the same price as the rack grade if I go the woodless Dane route.
try this guy, http://www.dougsstockpile.com
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Old 02-07-2006, 12:34 PM   #7
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 121
JAS, thanks for your imput on what too look for in a rack grade MI.
I have planned to go there shortly to do just that. Your advise will aid me greatly in selecting one I can make a good shooter. I will print it out and take it with me. I will also be buying the stock there. I just read that they got 10 new stock sets in, so I have to go pretty soon. Unfortunately they don't stock the Criterion barrels, and the CMP web site lists 0 in stock.
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Old 02-07-2006, 01:44 PM   #8
JAS
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Fremont, Ohio 13.6 miles from the north store
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Safari,
You are welcome. A stock is something you may want to hand pick. Each has it's own grain structure and character.
On the other hand, with new barrels, a barrel is a barrel. Mail ordering a barrel is not much of a risk. The one thing they told my brother when he ordered his Criterion barrel was to go ahead and get it on back order and not wait for them to show up on the e-store. Anniston fills back orders first and they only show up on the e-store after all orders have been filled.
Hope you find a winner at the north store.
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Old 02-07-2006, 05:10 PM   #9
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JAS is right. go to the north store, handpick for wood, and be done with it. replace the barrel and off ya go.
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Old 02-09-2006, 09:31 AM   #10
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 121
I just got back from the NS. Both George and PeeWee helped me make the selection of the rifle and stock. Two days ago they had 10 stocks, I went through the remaining six and picked one with a really nice grain pattern. I was the only customer there until I checked out. Two other guys came in and bought another stock so now they have 4. JAS, thanks again for your advice. I took your post with me and used it. What I ended up with was a post war rack grade greek return. The internals were in excellent shape, the rod track was sharp with no marks. PeeWee pulled out the trigger group and the op rod and they are very good as well. There was no evidence of a slam fire. The face of the bolt was sharp with no marks and the FP hole was not elongated. The stock was in bad shape, but who cares. The gas cylinder was black on the exterior. The only thing was the butt plate was worn, but I picked the one that had the least wear. It has about 50% of the checkering left. The trigger guard is milled. PeeWee tried to put it in an older rifle, but after 3 tries it would not fit. I forget the sn, but I will put it in my post on the finished rifle. BTW the barrel still has a fair amount of life in it, but it is being replaced anyway. Thanks again.
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Old 02-09-2006, 10:15 AM   #11
JAS
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Fremont, Ohio 13.6 miles from the north store
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Safari,
Glad to hear you got a good one. My brother and I were at the north store this morning as well. We bought a couple of stocks. Were you the guy that showed us the stock you had just picked out? I had the black ball cap on.
Good butt plates seem to be rare right now. I just got one in an order from Sarco. They listed it as good/used for $15.00. That was a fair description, I'd say it had about 75% checkering left. Placer CBS lists new butt plates for $35.00! I'd pay $35.00 if I knew it was really new and really USGI. Has anybody else out there bought one of these? Were you satisfied?
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Old 02-10-2006, 01:42 AM   #12
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 121
Jas, that was me. Damn it, I should have introduced myself. You could have taken a look at the rifle I picked out. Oh well.
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