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Old 04-06-2006, 04:57 AM   #41
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 400
Thanks alot Cowboy!

This thread has the makings for a sticky.
Jmurman is offline  
Old 04-06-2006, 05:50 AM   #42
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Be advised that the barrel is much softer in this area than you would think.

It does not take much force to peen these splines so don't get carried away beating on it.
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Old 04-08-2006, 10:51 AM   #43
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 52
Wood removal

Cornbread, thankyou for the info. Am I to understand wood can be removed and still be JCG match legal? I am still waiting for an answer from the CMP websight.
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Old 04-09-2006, 01:25 PM   #44
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Yes. Everything I listed is Garand match legal.

You can also do a trigger job but it must hold a 4.5lb weight.
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Old 04-16-2006, 12:09 PM   #45
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 417
Found a CMP rifle recently...

...with an LMR barrel that gaged brand new (TE-less than 1, way less and MW at 0). I wondered why a rifle like this was marked as "Rack," but I bought it anyway. When I disassembled it, I found the op rod was literally digging into the stock. I took my faithful Dremel and it's large drum sander and relieved the inside of the stock enough to provide clearance. I actually took out quite a bit of material. The stock was a heavy Overton restock from the same timer period as the barrel (8/53). Inside it bore almost no signs of having been shot and the gas cylinder was as new. It's wear was associated with handling, likely from drill and parade practice. Now, it shoots really well and came home for a song.

I think it was simply junked somewhere in the military supply chain because it was likely shooting off the paper the last time someone used it. Darned shame. Fine rifle out of the 50's or 60's rebuild programs, just never made it as a shooter, so I got a brand new barrel and rebuild from the best barrel maker Garand ever had, according to some shooters. Their loss, my gain.

Thanks for the info. I copied it to harddrive with your name as author so I can look at it again from time to time. I suffer from old timer's disease sometimes.
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Old 04-20-2006, 10:17 AM   #46
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Here's a little JCG-legal trick for the front handguard. Bend the hole in the front handguard ferrule out toward the center at 90degree angles, when you slide it back on you'll find it stays in place and doesn't move. Just like unitizing but legal. It'll also help if you can hog out the barrel channel so the barrel doesn't touch the handguard. You usually need a long drill bit slightly larger in diameter than the barrel at the rear.
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Old 04-27-2006, 09:46 AM   #47
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Great. I am waiting for my two rifles from CMP and came here from the M1A board to get the skinny on what I need to do when the new units arrive. Thanks!
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Old 07-03-2006, 03:09 AM   #48
Join Date: Jun 2003
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Originally Posted by lithic1
As a general rule, how often should one remove the op rod to clean the inside of the cylinder, and the end of the op rod piston?

I have always removed the gas cylinder and both hand guards in order to get the op rod off. I am hearing that the gas cylinder should be left in place unless dire circumstances require its removal. Can the op rod be removed (easily) without removing handguards, etc??

A tool which is often over looked to remove the cly plug screw is a 1/4 inch rachet with a short extension. The square end on the ext. fits perfect. Most try to use a big straight slot screw driver which works about 1/2 the time.

I have a 308 match tuned M-1 and my '06 M-1 which is shot in Garand matches both have the gas cyl locked down. So if I clean, I have to remove the op rod from the bottom. The 308 gets cleaned once a year (off the stock) unless there is a large amount of dirt when firing on the line.

With the stock off, turn the rifle upside down. I use the sights to hold the rifle on the table. Pull the oprod spring out of the oprod. The oprod will now move back and forth with no spring tension. The follower will stop the bolt from going forward all the way but just pull the oprod to rear far enough to disengage the bolt and reciever. It takes me some fiddling around to get it all to fit back and I've shot things with the oprod spring a time or two works.

Also be aware the the tip of the oprod and gas cyl is made from stainless steel. Point is if you are shooting non corrosive ammo the gas system on a M-1 is self cleaning as well.
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Old 07-28-2006, 05:26 AM   #49
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lithic, All you need to do to clean the gas-cylinder is pull the bolt back to lock and remove the Gas-cylinder screw. Use a dry .50 caliber or 20 ga. bristle-brush,then either dry patches or paper towels to remove the loosened carbon. DO NOT use any solvent in the Gas-Cylinder, it's meant to operate dry.

BTW, either make or buy a Gas-Cylinder wrench so you don't flex the gas-cylinder when you remove/install the gas-cylinder lock and screw. You can get the screw tight enough with a M3A1 Combo-tool

Like the guys said, you take the rifle down completely once a year. Every time you do it takes forty to fifty rounds to shoot the receiver back into the Stock to where it doesn't move anymore. further, the more you remove the Gas-Cylinder, the looser it fits. This is NOT conducive to good groups, the front sight sits on it and you don't want it moving around. Also, what little carbon will buildup on the face of the op-rod will not affect accuracy enough to worry about until yearly teardown. Be sure that every time you do remove the screw that you check the port. I made a little cleanout tool by straightening out a large paperclip and bent the last 3/16th of it at a 90 degree angle. I use this to scrape out the port of carbon.
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Old 04-04-2007, 04:35 AM   #50
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WOW!!!! a wealth of knowledge in this thread. Thanks to all.
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Old 01-07-2008, 06:51 PM   #51
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Re: So that CMP Garand is not so accurate?

Originally Posted by Cornbread2
Or it has a different zero hot than it does cold?

The bore looks OK but the damn thing just will not shoot well?

99% of the time it is because of the stock or handguards. The stock on many CMP rifles are the cause of their problems. The new Boyds stock you just bought can be even worse.

The first thing you look for is lock up. Is the action tight in the stock? Does it take some effort to close the trigger guard?

If the answer to these questions are yes them you are extremly lucky and the rest of your problems can be eaisly fixed.

The first thing you need to do is remove the lower handguard and put the rifle back in the stock and lock in the trigger group. Look down inside at how you barrel fits inside the stock.

The barrel must NOT be touching the stock. On most CMP guns you will need to remove some wood somewhere. The barrel should float from the reciever to the lower band. Wood touching the barrel in this area will cause flyers and a different zero as the rifle warms up.

While you are at it make sure the OP rod is not touching the stock anywhere. Remove wood if needed.

Now remove the rifle from the stock and put your lower handguard back on. The handguard must not be making contact with the reciever enough that it is a really tight fit between the reciever and lower band. There has to be a slight gap between the reciever and handguard. If the handguard is too long and it puts any pressure on the reciever it will cause a huge difference in zero from cold to hot.

The handguard should also float on the barrel. You should be able to run a piece of thin paper between it and the barrel. Most of the time it is not only touching the barrel but putting a lot of pressure on the barrel.

This also causes many zero and accuracy problems. Remove wood untill only the retaining clip touches the barrel.

Now comes the upper handguard. The most common problem that you find is the gas clyinder is tight against the upper handguard. This is a MAJOR screw up that can cause as much as a foot difference in your zero at only 100 yards from a cold rifle to a hot one. Combine this problem with a too tight lower handguard and your 100 yard zero can move as much as 15 inches from your first cold shot to your 20th round. This makes for poor shooting and any sort of long range accuracy impossible.

There must be just a bit of clearance between the upper handguard and gas cylinder. The handguard MUST have some slack in it. Some people can't stand the thought of this but you must learn to accept it if you wish to keep the rifle JCG match legal. You can do a NM mod to fix this but it is not too good for a field rifle.

After you get the wood correct expect to find that you now have a huge difference in your zero. You would not believe just how flexable the Garand barrel is. Stock and handguard problems can bend the barrel causing problems with your zero.

Do all of this right and make sure the OP rod is not touching anything it is not supposed to and your Garand will become a much better shooter.
Is there anyway to add pictures to this? It would clear up a few things for me. For example, I am not sure what you mean about clearance between the upper handguard and gas cylinder. There is a band between the two so how could they touch?
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Old 01-26-2008, 08:46 AM   #52
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In other words. the gas cylinder should not be jammed up against the front handguard ferrule. The front handguard should be a little loose, with some front to back movement. HTH
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Old 01-27-2008, 07:01 PM   #53
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That may be my rifle's problem because it has no front-to-rear movement on the front handguard...
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Old 03-07-2008, 07:05 PM   #54
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Re: So that CMP Garand is not so accurate?

Terrific and all good info from a knowledgable group
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Old 03-08-2008, 06:20 AM   #55
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Re: So that CMP Garand is not so accurate?

The OP rod touching the stock can cause flyers. If you can shoot two or three rounds in the ten ring and the next one goes about a foot or more high check out your OP rod.
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