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Old 11-19-2005, 02:23 PM   #1
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 11
Buffalo Arms

Hi, this is my first post and my first M1 carbine. It's a Saginaw shooter. The bbl. is marked Buffalo Arms. I don't see them on any of the sub contractor lists for the carbine. Can anyone fill me in?

The gun was really a mess, but I got a good deal on it. It just came back from the smith who fixed it up. He discovered the Buffalo Arms marking.

Thanks in advance!

By the way..I have quite a few guns of all types. I think I have decided the carbine is my favorite of all
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Old 11-19-2005, 02:48 PM   #2
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
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Carbine is a fun gun to shoot, and to take apart...you need to buy a bolt tool so you can take your bolt apart periodically and clean it...the extractor is the weak point of the design, and keeping it free from crud is the best way to keep it working for a long time.

Buffalo Arms did make barrels for carbine contractors. I will let the more knowledgeable tell you more.
Audie is offline  
Old 11-20-2005, 08:59 AM   #3
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If it is an S'G' and not an SG, then the barrel could be original. Give us the approximate serial number so we can tell which it is.
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Old 11-20-2005, 10:06 AM   #4
 
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Actually you can have the whole number

3591406

Thanks!
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Old 11-20-2005, 12:39 PM   #5
 
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Looks like it is a S'G' so the barrel can be right. Those S'G' carbines with a SG serial number are collector pieces.
Bolo-7 is offline  
Old 11-20-2005, 01:34 PM   #6
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 11
Well, I'm not a happy camper

I took my supposedly refurbished carbine to the range today and it still doesn't shoot.

The gunsmith told me he just cleaned everything up and it worked fine. Obviously, he didn't test fire it.

It is exactly the same problem. When I rack the slide the firing pin does not fire the round.
If I force the slide forward it will fire three rounds and then misfire and then the whole bolt jams with a round in the chamber.

I am not happy tonight

But thanks for the info about BUffalo ARms
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Old 11-20-2005, 01:39 PM   #7
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
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Could it be a broken firing pin?

Buffalo Arms did produce/provide Carbine barrels under the Govt's "free barrel program"----by far the majority of their work during WW II, however, involved the production of the .50 Browning M2 MG----with them specializing in producing the version used in Allied aircraft.
ChairborneRanger is offline  
Old 11-20-2005, 02:34 PM   #8
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 331
Just a thought - if you're having to "force the slide forward", you may need a new recoil spring, as the present spring may not have enough power to consistently go forward into battery.

Use a USGI replacement spring, as commercial "extra power" springs can actually cause malfunctions.

Also, how dirty is the chamber? Extractor and firing pin condition?
gman552 is offline  
Old 11-20-2005, 02:54 PM   #9
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 11
I replaced the recoil spring

Nothing worked..that's why I took it to a smith. He supposedly cleaned everything and proclaimed it in working order...
Obviously, he didn't check it.
The question now is whether or not he will stand behind his work.
Right now, I have my doubts. I'm fairly sure he wil find some kind of loop-hole
this sucks
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Old 11-20-2005, 03:18 PM   #10
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,318
Buying a sixty year old anything always has some risk. Many times buying something brand new also has its risks. The good thing is that parts are easy to find and a carbine is simple to work on. If you were closer, I would offer to fix it for only the cost of parts.
There are many people here who will help you. Why don't you learn to fix it yourself? Then in the future if there are problems you will know what to do.
If your smith cleaned it, he could have easily missed a wore part or two. Even if he shot it a time or two. He did not rebuild it nor did you pay for him to rebuild it.
Bolo-7 is offline  
Old 11-20-2005, 04:03 PM   #11
 
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Thanks

Actually I really did try to fix it myself. I broke everything down, cleaned it, examined the parts...chatted on the internet, put it back together and it didn't work...
at that point I decided to take it to a "real" gunsmith, because I am not one...
lesson learned I suppose

I am what I am and that is not a mechanic..that's why we poor unfortunates pay an absurd amount of money for those who are..
unfortunately, we find out they don't know any more than we do
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Old 11-20-2005, 04:37 PM   #12
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,318
I understand. Now a few times when a carbine would not work changing out parts to find the weak one is necessary. No one now has the jigs and inspection machines that the Arsenals had in the 40s and 50s.
If I had it the first thing I would do is to remove the gas piston and clean the gas port in the barrel with a .070 drill bit. When I reassembled the gas piston and nut, I would check to see if the nut was a late one. The early ones would make some carbines seem underpowered. Next I would be sure the barrel was indexed right and the slide moved free. With only the bolt and silde on the barrel, no slide spring, the slide should go back and fourth at 45 degrees up and down. Next place to look would be the slide spring, bolt, mag. and mag catch.
I have bought many carbines that had problems. That is why they are for sale. They didn't work right and the owner did not want to pay for fixing it. They just traded it at a gun shop for something else and let the shop owner or the next buyer find the problem.
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Old 11-20-2005, 06:49 PM   #13
 
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I agree with roger. take the time to learn to work on your own carbine. It is a very easy gun to work on. I would recommend buying the AGI video on the carbine..that is how I learned. I would however not advise you to rebarrel or mess with the gas piston if you do not have the tools or the knowhow...that is gunsmith time for me, and I have extensive metal working background. I just don't have the tools to chase threads or work on rebarreling. and the one thing I learned, is NEVER do a project without the correct tools.

BUT, it you are not taking the gas piston apart (you don't need to...just soak it in hoppes over night todislodge dirt), you don't need any tools to work on a carbine! It is a wonderful design for its simplicity.

Your problem could be any number of things, but you will only know by taking it apart and putting it back together.

btw, I would suspect the slide binding. do Bolo's check, it is real easy and the slide should be a loose rattle fit. It should not bind or hang up in any way. Also move it along by hand without the spring and make sure you cannot pull it out unless it gets to the release notch. If your slide is riding the rail, it could bind just like you are explaining. If that is the problem, a new slide is in order...a 40 dollar expense.

this happened to me. It may not be the problem, but it was trying to jump the rail at the end its movement to close and binding. When this happens, how do you dislodge it? This is important. It is impossible to push forward, you would have to push it inward. Then when it fires, it rides up and out and binds up again. I used to have to jiggle the handle to get the bolt to unbind and close...finally, the slide just started jumping out and disengaging from the bolt. It was a worn lug on the slide causing the problem.

This may not be your problem, but it sure sounds like what happened to me.

This is the only way the bolt could be bound shut with a round. Assuming the barrel is indexed properly.
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Old 11-23-2005, 02:41 PM   #14
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On the other hand, you could sell it to me or Roger, cheap! Just kidding (sort of). I regularly rebuild carbines. Most of the time its something small that is causing the malfunctions.
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Old 11-23-2005, 03:03 PM   #15
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 105
Ammo?

It could be something as simple as the ammunition you're feeding it. What are you shooting for ammo? Are you inspecting spent cases for burrs and scratches that would indicate a problem within the chamber? I would start with the simple things and work my way to the more comples.
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Old 11-23-2005, 04:05 PM   #16
 
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Posts: 2,207
How could that bind the bolt closed. Still sounds like a worn op slide lug jumping and binding to me. Change the slide, and I bet it goes away.
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Old 11-23-2005, 06:10 PM   #17
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 105
Ammo

Audie, I'm certainly not saying that this problem is not a "worn op slide lug jumping and binding." However, News shooter has had this carbine inspected by someone he thought was a qualified gunsmith. We can assume he got ripped off, but we can equally assume the smith did his job well and that he was correct when he determined the carbine functioned properly.

"If I force the slide forward it will fire three rounds and then misfire and then the whole bolt jams with a round in the chamber."

If this were my carbine, before I spend any more money on it by replacing parts, I'm going to inspect the spent cases for signs of a problem. In fact, that's the first thing I would have ruled out before I took it to a gunsmith. Ammunition is a variable which should always be considered when encountering any failure to feed, failure to eject, or jamming with a semi-auto firearm.
News shooter, be sure report back when you figure this one out.
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Old 11-23-2005, 06:37 PM   #18
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,207
Maybe I misinterpreted what he said. Didn't he say it "bound" shut...this is not a misfeed situation. News shooter needs to weigh in...does the slide and bolt bind or do you mean it just misfires. Having to push the slide into battery by hand indicates a binding slide to me.

the carbine is not a complicated machine, it can only be a very limited number of things.

I think we are talking about two entirely different problems PH. Need some clarification as to the exact problem. then maybe we can help.
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Old 11-24-2005, 09:06 AM   #19
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 11
Thanks for the input

I appreciate the suggestions. I am a mechanical incompetent. If I am not describing this properly please forgive me.

Let me try again without looking at my original post. I have tried two different types of factory ammo and have four GI fifteen round magazines. The is the same across the board.

This guy has been around for twenty five years and is very well known so I don't believe it is a rip-off. I think he just didn't rest-fire the gun.

Here's what happens:

I load a fifteen round magazine and rack the slide in normal fashion. Aim the gun and pull thr trigger. It goes click. I remove the magazine and rack the slide again. The bullet is still in the chamber. I turn the gun upward and the bullet slides out and falls onto the ground.

I take another magazine and load it. This time when I rack the slide I forced it forward instead of just releasing it. I aim the gun and pull the trigger and it fires. I pull the trigger and it fires again and then one more time. On the fourth or fifth trigger pull it just goes click. I remove the magazine, but now the bolt is closed and stuck on a live round. I'm panicking and keep trying to open and finally it opens and the round drops out when I tilt the gun up again.

I put the cable lock back on and go back home a very disappointed puppy.

Again, I don't think he deliberately was trying to rip me off. But I do think it is going to wind up being one of those "Well it was working fine for me" conversations.

Thanks again for the input. I know it is hard to diagnose something like this from afar.
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Old 11-24-2005, 10:30 AM   #20
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 105
ammo?

OK, I guess you can rule out ammo. I'm a newbie when it comes to these carbines but not to semi-autos and firearms in general. When I read your post, the first thing that captures my attention is why the extracter is not pulling the live round out of the chamber? Is this a clue?
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