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Old 07-05-2005, 01:42 PM   #1
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unshining a stock

I have an inland carbine thats in great shape, and I have no complaint about it at all for the most part. However, it has a nice high-wood stock that someone went, and finished with some kind of shiney crap, like a laquer, or something. What I'd like to do would be to take that shiny crap off without harming the markings. Any suggestions? Thanks!
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Old 07-05-2005, 01:53 PM   #2
 
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Use a stripper, like Citri-Strip. Don't do any sanding or steel wool rubbing on it. You want the natural, non-glare finish to be militarily correct. Most of the time, the stock will look a little light after stripping/washing, so I usually re-stain and oil with 1:1 raw linseed oil/turpentine. I have a little depot stock stain from Rock Island that I use, but I hear the Chestnut Ridge 'military' stain is good.
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Old 07-05-2005, 04:37 PM   #3
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Roger that. That won't dissolve, or erase the RA-P marking, will it? That's the only cartouche (sp?) I remember being on it. And I really don't want to destroy that. Its a really nice stock. The only thing I've ever had to do to it was to repair a crack that I think was caused by some yahoo bump firing it. I got it used from a gun shop, so I have no idea what its seen in its day. Other than the crack, I don't think it was used hard. its just, my 1903A3, and M1 both have the BLO finish while the carbine is shiney. I dunno...I'm just thinkin that's not how its life should be. Thanks
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Old 07-05-2005, 04:49 PM   #4
 
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Cap'n - Any idea what kind of shiny finish it is ? I hope for your sake it isn't POLYURETHANE

I am hoping you can strip it easily. When I hear shiny, I get scared.

Chestnut Ridge Military Walnut is a good stain but can go a little red for some folks. Gale Lock Dark Walnut is my personal pick for the carbine, or a blend of Lock with the Chestnut Ridge.
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Old 07-05-2005, 04:59 PM   #5
 
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Is the crack at the 'tang' of the recoil lug? If so, it has nothing to do with bump firing. This kind of crack is the result of firing rifle grenades with the hi-powered rifle grenade blank.
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Old 07-05-2005, 05:06 PM   #6
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it could be anything...I know...it scares me too...

What I was planning on doing, and I bet this is the wrong thing to do, is to do away with the shiney finish, and just slap a coat of BLO on it. I really don't know why anyone would shine up a stock like that. it doesn't look dirty at all, but its not really true to military form being shiney, and all.
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Old 07-05-2005, 05:09 PM   #7
 
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I don't know how you would get poly off, but I would go to your local hardward store and see what they have. Once you do get it off, you can get any old BLO out by using GoJo SMOOTH handcleaner and hot water straight from the tap...I wear gloves so the hot water doesn't scald. I have done this on several really nice stocks and it never takes off the markings...once the wood is thoroughly dry, I coat it with a thick coat of Minwax Tung Oil. After a few days I lightly sand to cut the oil layer down using 00 refinishing pads. I only rub hard enough to get the shine off it and not the wood. this leaves a hard, dull, good looking finish that is not sticky. I have done 4 stocks like this now and highly recommend the technique...I think Jimb recommended the GoJo. Smells nice too, my wife says she even likes the way the house smells after I use it...clean she says...works for me. provided you get that laquer off.
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Old 07-05-2005, 05:13 PM   #8
 
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you want the BLO or BTO to get into the wood...with that lacquer it won't work...you need to get down to the dry wood and get all that off and all the old BLO underneath out. You may need some refinisher for furniture products. Can you scratch it with your fingernail and see the mark. Poly is usually so hard you can't do that.
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Old 07-05-2005, 06:24 PM   #9
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If it happens to be one of the water-based polyurethanes, ordinary ammonia will eat it right off.

Easy-Off oven cleaner--not the fume-free kind--will eat off a lot of other finishes, including enamels, and will even take old oil finishes off a stock. Don't let it sit on the wood more than 5-10 minutes, though. Just do one section of the stock at a time.
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Old 07-06-2005, 05:12 AM   #10
 
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To be correct with the WWII instructions, you would not use boiled linseed oil at any time, since it dries on the surface to a shine. You would use raw linseed oil which soaks into the wood and leaves a non-glare finish.
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Old 07-06-2005, 05:10 PM   #11
 
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Any recommended websites or stores for raw linseed oil? My carbine had been sitting in an attic for a few decades and the wood seems a little dry.

Steve
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Old 07-06-2005, 07:51 PM   #12
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Do you have a Hobby Lobby store around? Or a store that sells paints or art supplies? They will likely have raw linseed oil.
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Old 07-06-2005, 09:13 PM   #13
 
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I still would recommend Tung Oil. You can get it at any hardware store and it is much less sticky when it drys than linseed oil.
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Old 07-07-2005, 05:42 AM   #14
 
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Apply the RLO as a 1:1 solution with turpentine. This provides fast penetration and prevents stickiness. BLO and Tung Oil are varnishes that are intended to dry on the surface to seal the wood.
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