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|11-01-2006, 08:48 PM||#1|
Join Date: Oct 2003
How to remove rust
I have a problem with an older winchester 94 rifle. The sides of the reciever have long lost their bluing and are prone to rusting. I left the the rifle with a light coat of oil after cleaning it and it got pretty humid in the house and it got light surface rust all over the reciever. I read the post on this forum titled Rust and I tried CLP and a rag to clean it off but it has stained the reciever brown. I would like to get it off with out removing the traces of the original bluing. thanks
|11-02-2006, 05:07 AM||#2|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mountain Top, PA
We used a No. 2 pencil on spots on the M1 & M14. Then a light coat
Don't forget, don't touch the metal with your hands after putting
the coat of oil on.
|11-02-2006, 06:35 AM||#3|
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Above all, don't use a chemical rust remover. It will only take off any remaining blue, which is a type of rust itself.
3-in-1 oil or Break Free/CLP with either 0000 or 00000 steel wool can be used on really stubborn stuff but with care. Too vigorous a scrubbing with leave scratches in the surface.
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|12-01-2006, 05:31 PM||#5|
Join Date: Dec 2002
Liberally soak with Kroil, bore solvent, WD-40, or CLP Breakfree.
Kroil is the best since it penetrates better to soften the rust.
Let soak for several days to soften the rust.
Make a scraper from brass sheet or by flattening a brass rifle case mouth and filing to an edge.
Buy a brass "toothbrush".
Do NOT use a penny as a scraper. These are NOT copper these days and can scratch the remaining bluing.
After soaking, apply more Kroil or whatever, then brush the rust with the brass brush. For hard, crusty rust, use the brass scrapper.
After removing as much as possible, wipe clean and dry, then apply CLP Breakfree to prevent further rust and to continue working on any rust left.
This will remove light surface rust, but unlike steel wool or other abrasives, it won't further degrade the bluing.
While this will "kill" and remove the rust, there will be tiny pits and missing blue.
The only way to fix this is to have the gun re-blued.
|03-10-2007, 05:15 AM||#6|
Join Date: Oct 2006
Amsoil make a product caled MP that takes rust off really well. It comes in a white can with the letters MP right on it. extremely effective for rust and can't be beat.
|03-18-2007, 02:18 AM||#7|
Join Date: Nov 2005
A fine bronze brush (for me anyway) doesn't leave behind its bronze on the work surface as much as the brass bristled brushed I've used in the past. It appears that the bronze bristles are finer than their brass counterparts YMMV.
I don't recall the brand of gun maint. products that distributed those excellent brushes - red - black n' white package.
Very Interesting . . . the #2 pencil
Off the cuff / Not particularly related to assist the task at hand here -
Has anybody heard of a molassis dip for rust removal ?
Or more Urban Legend ?
|04-06-2007, 02:15 PM||#8|
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Northern Nevada
Hereís a neat trick to cover the damage. When you get rust pitting, steel wool and oil will remove most of the rust and hopefully stop the rusting process, but youíll still have small deposits of rust. Hereís a way to completely remove the rust and cover it all up.
After you have hit it with your oil and steel wool, take an X-Acto knife and just poke at the rust pit with the tip several times. Add oil as needed and wipe up from time to time. Continue until the area is silver once again. Then put a drop of acetone around the area to degrease. Now put a drop of cold blue in the pit with a Q-Tip, wipe over with extra fine steel wool and re-oil. Rust pitís just sort of disappear.
|04-06-2007, 10:22 PM||#9|
Join Date: Feb 2003
I wonder how Boeshield T-9 would do. I use it on the cast iron tables on my bandsaw and other shop tools and it is great. Used it to remove the rust from a cast iron table on a floor standing sander and the table now looks like new.
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