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Old 11-25-2005, 11:25 AM   #1
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1911 trigger job

can a person send a trigger and sear to a gunsmith to have the trigger pull improved on a series 80 1991A1? I don't care to ship the gun back and forth. I have seen the match-prepped hammer and sear sets, but I want to keep the current hammer.

Thanks!
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Old 11-25-2005, 11:59 AM   #2
 
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This can work to some degree.

They can stone the hammer notch and polish the surfaces but there is a lot more to doing a really good trigger job on a 1911 than just working with the hammer and sear.

So in short they can help it some but it may or may not be what you want.
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Old 11-25-2005, 03:04 PM   #3
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My answer to that would be not only no but hell no.

No responsible professional gunsmith should be willing to modify a trigger part without being able to be sure that the result is safe and functional.

Every part of the trigger mechanism is involved- not just the hammer and sear. For example if you cut the sear the thumb safety may not work.

I have tried the drop-in kits and found them to be as advertised and that may actually be the most economical alternative when you think about air shipping to and from.

Local gun shops often know folks who can do a competent job so it might pay to check around too.
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Old 11-25-2005, 04:33 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornbread2
...there is a lot more to doing a really good trigger job on a 1911 than just working with the hammer and sear....
like what?
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Old 11-25-2005, 06:05 PM   #5
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"...send a trigger and sear to a gunsmith to have the trigger pull improved..." No. The trigger pull is the sum of all the related parts. The trigger, sear, hammer and the springs. All of which have to work together in the pistol smoothly for a good trigger.
"...hammer and sear sets..." These need fitting to the pistol. It's not a drop in thing.
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Old 11-25-2005, 07:39 PM   #6
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I agree with the other posters. It is just not worth the hassle of sending in just the parts when the entire gun will also be down during the smithing process. I would find a local smith that will do the job for you. It only took a couple of days for a local smith here to exactly match the really crappy trigger on my Springfield to my Kimber. Now my Springfield is an even better gun than the Kimber (and for only $45.00). I have less than $350 in the Springfield (yeah it's a bit old) and over $700 in the Kimber. Guess which one I can shoot better
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Old 11-26-2005, 02:38 AM   #7
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The trigger and the sear are not interrelated as such, you would send the sear and hammer. However, I recommend against that as a smith can't tell how the two parts will work in the gun without the gun. How will this effect the disconnector? The thumb-safety?

Very ill-advised.
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Old 11-26-2005, 03:13 AM   #8
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Now this is interesting. Four responders have said that what the OP wants to do is not a good idea, for good reasons, yet no one seems to be condemning the sale of the drop-in prefitted hammer/sear sets, to which all of the above comments should apply.

I suppose the answer is that the drop-in sets should still be fitted by a qualified gunsmith or someone who knows what he's doing. What you're paying for is the precision mating surfaces of the hammer hooks and the sear nose when fitted to a gun that is perfectly in-spec as regards pin hole location, etc.
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Old 11-26-2005, 06:43 AM   #9
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Actually I did discourage the use of the drop-in kits when they first appeared but have since used several with good results. I've shot a bunch of rounds in guns with them, performed all the safety checks and found nothing to gripe about. IIRC most have instructions on the safety checks needed.

Snake raises a very valid point about hole locations. In the early days of aftermarket frames it was very hard to get a good trigger because the sear and hammer pin holes weren't always in the same place. Modern frames are much better and that isn't as much of a problem as it once was.
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Old 11-26-2005, 07:46 AM   #10
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I have built 11 1911s on aftermarket frames--five LW Fed Ord Rangers, four on Essex including one very early one and two others made in the mid '70s--and I never had any problems whatsoever with pin locations. I have heard of them, but I never had any.

This is even more remarkable: I never had to fit a thumb safety to get it to work properly. Most of the guns I built had those Fed Ord cast bubble-card speed safeties, the rest surplus USGI parts, and every single one of them dropped right in and functioned perfectly.

In fact, the ONLY thumb safety problem I ever saw was in my very first 1911, which was built from a Tom Forrest complete kit. If you pulled the trigger hard, the hammer would drop, wiping the safety down with it. Having no idea how to fit or fix the thing, I just used it that way VERY CAREFULLY (range only) for a couple years until I replaced it with a Fed Ord part, which dropped right in and functioned perfectly. Even more interesting, the Forrest-supplied ex-GI safety had a large crack (looks almost like a tear) in the plate part of it. How you could get that part to crack in that way if you wanted to ever so badly, I have no idea.
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Old 11-26-2005, 05:03 PM   #11
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oopsie, I meant hammer and sear, not trigger and sear.

Thank you all for the responses, I will find a good 1911 'smith, I guess.
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Old 12-18-2005, 04:46 AM   #12
 
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With some basic work (polishing, and spring tuning) I can get typical USGI parts down to a 4 - 5lb trigger pull. I have put in over a dozen drop-in kits into various pistols, Colt, SA and 1 Norinco. This has always worked well and the trigger pull is smooth and around 2 - 3 lbs. The drop-in kit that I exclusively use is Cylinder and Slide. This is the hammer, sear, disconnector, hammer spring, and sear spring.

Thanks
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Old 12-18-2005, 07:46 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garand
With some basic work (polishing, and spring tuning) I can get typical USGI parts down to a 4 - 5lb trigger pull.
Ditto on that. It isn't too difficult to get GI/factory parts down to a clean 4-5 pounds if you know what you're doing, and this is a VERY shootable trigger pull for any use except full bullseye competition. Going lower than this safely requires special parts and/or experience and knowledge.
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