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Old 09-16-2006, 10:38 AM   #1
 
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M1 bayonet help & info

This was given to me have all the internal parts also except for the grips should this have the wood or plastic resin grips there is also an "A" stamped above the slot where it slides onto the bayo lug info or points of interest would be apprecitated
Thanks for any help

[img]http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i292/wplowing/bayonew1c.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i292/wplowing/bayonew2a.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i292/wplowing/bayoco.jpg[/img]
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Old 09-16-2006, 03:56 PM   #2
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I can't make out all the stamps, but it's a Springfield Arsenal marked cut down, with what looks like a 1907 date.

These were originally 16" long blades that were shortened during WWII to 10".

As such, it would have American walnut grips.
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Old 09-26-2007, 01:35 AM   #3
 
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SA is Springfield Arsenal -- 1907 is the date of mfg. The "flaming cannonball" is the symbol for Army Ordnance.

On the reverse, US is standard military property stamp. 215091 is the serial number of the bayo. The "8" on the tang looks like a proof mark or inspector mark-- just a guess on this one.

No clue what the "A" is about, but it might be a production line mark indicating which press it was produced on or something similar.

This is cut down WWII from the original 16" to 10" -- This bayo mounts on the Springfield M1 1903 and the M1 A Garand.

Even without the scales on the grip, it's highly collectable and an interesting piece. If you had "provenance" -- who it was issued to, who carried it and where, during what period, that would increase the value as an antique collectable.

Light coat of machine oil. Don't try to polish or "restore." It's worth more like it is than if attempts are made to "fix" it or clean it up.

I have a 1943 PAL, same model, cut down, with a sheath, like new, that I paid $70 for 5 yrs ago at a gun show. No provenance.

Yours is 100 yrs old, and worth more. Springfield Arsenal makes it particularly interesting as a collection piece.
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Old 10-24-2008, 07:10 PM   #4
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Re: M1 bayonet help & info

I've got an M1905 marked UFH/U(flaming bomb)S/1942 in absolutely mint condition. Virgin blade, never had an edge put on it, still has machining burrs on it as well.
The scabbard is marked USN/MK 1. Any one want to do a straight-across trade for the scabbard with the US inside the flaming bomb on the throat? It's in 98% condition or better. WWII production only, no repros or current mfg. I got this about 30 years ago at a gun show. Traded about $15 worth of stuff for it, BTW.
Thanks
Jon
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Old 07-06-2016, 02:32 PM   #5
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Bayo scabbard

I'd love to buy that scabbard if it's a 16 inch WWII Jon. I have a 16 inch 1909 SA Bayonet...no scabbard. Edited never mind I found one. Thanks


road





Quote:
Originally Posted by musketjon View Post
I've got an M1905 marked UFH/U(flaming bomb)S/1942 in absolutely mint condition. Virgin blade, never had an edge put on it, still has machining burrs on it as well.
The scabbard is marked USN/MK 1. Any one want to do a straight-across trade for the scabbard with the US inside the flaming bomb on the throat? It's in 98% condition or better. WWII production only, no repros or current mfg. I got this about 30 years ago at a gun show. Traded about $15 worth of stuff for it, BTW.
Thanks
Jon
NRA-Endowment

Last edited by road; 07-07-2016 at 12:35 PM. Reason: clarification
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Old 08-03-2016, 06:56 PM   #6
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I can't see the image and I guess I'm a little late making a comment, but most often, a marking on the top/spine of the handle was an indication of the company that actually did the cut-down on those longer blades.
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Old 08-17-2018, 05:39 PM   #7
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I was given this bayo by my brother-in-law who got it for next to nothing at an auction in a pawn shop.It's a SA 1918 flaming bomb one side and US 963116 on the other.The question is does it really hurt the piece to clean it to the collector.I am not a collector of bayonets but she is pretty rusted one side more than the other.The latch in the handle still moves freely but I am use to the German bayonet having a release I don't see a release unless it's that small pin on the left.

I have were a button use to be on the underside someone. has opened this in the past
Attached Images
File Type: jpg M1bayo 001.JPG (2.31 MB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg M1bayo 002.JPG (2.16 MB, 5 views)

Last edited by Javlin; 08-17-2018 at 05:44 PM.
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Old 08-17-2018, 06:09 PM   #8
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Javlin, that looks very similar to a bayonet I bought at a tourist/gift shop in Gatlinburg in 1966 (I was 12). There was a large basket of the things on the floor by the front counter, "Your Choice $3." They had two kinds, long ones like this, and shorter ones. Now of course I'm wishing I'd bought at least one of each--but of course I was only 12 and $3 was a pretty fair chunk of whipout for me at the time.

I've steel-wooled rust off of it several times over the years. It still lives in the brown paper and masking tape "sheath" the clerk wrapped the blade up in in 1966.
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Old 08-17-2018, 06:33 PM   #9
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Sorry....couldn't resist putting this here.
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Old 08-17-2018, 06:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snake45 View Post
Javlin, that looks very similar to a bayonet I bought at a tourist/gift shop in Gatlinburg in 1966 (I was 12). There was a large basket of the things on the floor by the front counter, "Your Choice $3." They had two kinds, long ones like this, and shorter ones. Now of course I'm wishing I'd bought at least one of each--but of course I was only 12 and $3 was a pretty fair chunk of whipout for me at the time.

I've steel-wooled rust off of it several times over the years. It still lives in the brown paper and masking tape "sheath" the clerk wrapped the blade up in in 1966.
So you think I am OK cleaning and oiling it some Snake?Quite honestly I don't see myself looking to sell it in the future just want something to go in the case with Garand on the wall.Kevin

You're good TG just knew there had to be thread out there already and it did not take much of a search either.
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Old 08-20-2018, 03:53 PM   #11
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There's a difference between preserving a collectible and "cleaning it up", which usually means ruining it.

Rust removal to preserve it is acceptable to me because rust doesn't belong there like age patina does.

I'd recommend liberally soaking the rusty areas with Kroil, CLP Breakfree, WD-40, penetrating fluid, or even Kerosene and letting it soak several days.
This will soften and loosen the rust but not harm the finish or patina.

After a good soak, apply more of whatever you used and brush the rust with a brass "toothbrush".
This will remove the rust but not the finish.
Other people may recommend a REAL copper penny or Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner, or even 0000 steel wool or bronze wool, or other methods.
I just prefer the brass brush because it does a good job of getting into the rust and pits and won't harm the finish.

Once the rust is off, I'd clean off the metal and apply a light coat of CLP Breakfree to protect it.
The Breakfree will prevent further rust and will continue to "work" on any rust left in the pits.
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:33 PM   #12
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Thks David(?)
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