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Old 01-17-2006, 02:27 PM   #1
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How to Install Firing Pins?

Hello List,

I have picked up an Ithaca Field Grade "Flues Model" that is missing the firing pins. I have located and ordered firing pins. I am wondering if this is a simple installation or one that requires special tools, fitting, etc.

Also, the rib is loose; the silver solder is broken between the rib and the barrel. Is there a fix that is easier than removal of the rib and finish and resolder? Is there any way to "reflow" the existing silver solder?

Could anyone provide any information?

Thanks,

Dillo
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Old 01-17-2006, 04:34 PM   #2
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It's been many years since I saw the inside of a Flues, but I seem to recall that the pins were accessed by removing the stock and they come out the rear of the receiver.

I can't remember if a common screw retains them or if a special spanner is needed.

On the rib, these are NOT silver soldered. The ribs AND THE BARRELS are joined by common lead soft solder.

This is a job for a GOOD gunsmith ONLY.

WARNING: It's not uncommon for the ribs and barrels to start to separate when attempting to re-solder a loose rib.

The first notice you get is a tiny "pop" as the solder melts and everything separates.

THEN you're in trouble, since trying to get everything back together properly is a real nail-biter.

I strongly recommend finding a good shotgun 'smith to do the rib work.
If you have no one locally, Simmons in Kansas is good on shotguns.
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:50 PM   #3
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Would I need special tools for springs, etc to install the pins?

Thanks,

Dillo
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Old 01-18-2006, 05:13 PM   #4
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I don't think so, BUT it's been almost 30 years since I was inside one, and I just don't remember.

Double guns are "different" from more modern designs.
They're usually assembled at the factory with special holding jigs and tools.

Without those tools and jigs, you can get in REAL trouble REAL fast when working on them.

Often, without the special tools, it's almost impossible to get one back together.

Best advice: See a good gunsmith.
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Old 01-18-2006, 06:59 PM   #5
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Dillo, you went and made me take my gun apart now darnit. I couldn't get as far into it as the firing pins, sorry bout that. I did take some pictures though and hope this will help you on your quest.

First one of course is the side of my Ithaca double.
[img]http://home.comcast.net/~vf1000ride/82.JPG[/img]

Next step after taking stock off was to put the barrels back on it. You will have to release the hammers before the next step and having the barrels on will make resetting them later infinatly easier. After that go ahead and push up on the two sear tangs and let the hammers fall. From the ouside of the shotgun remove the two screws that retain the sear tangs into the reciever. (I only pulled one just for illustration)
[img]http://home.comcast.net/~vf1000ride/84.JPG[/img]

Now the next logical step is to push out the crosspin that the hammers ride on. This is the first sign of trouble with taking mine apart. Either the cross pin is actually like a rivet with the ends peaned over or it is just stuck so bad it won't come out. If you can't get past this step on your gun, it's time to see a gunsmith. Even at that rate the hammer springs have a very stiff tension and I wouldn't know how easy it would be to get them back into the reciever.

This next picture is of the guts and what you can't see because the hammer is in the way.
[img]http://home.comcast.net/~vf1000ride/85.JPG[/img]

Now the reason for keeping the barrels on. Open the barrels like you would normally and put a small piece of wood or plastic in there to hold everything open. This will retract the hammers and allow you to view deeper into the reciever. This next picture shows the firing pin (awesome blue arrow) and a screw that retains a small spring (red arrow). The firing pin won't come out of the reciever with that screw in the way.
[img]http://home.comcast.net/~vf1000ride/90.JPG[/img]

The only way I can see to get that screw out of the way is to have the hammers removed and that is where my dilema began and ended. I wish you luck getting your gun fixed up and hope this helped out some. Vf1000ride
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Old 01-19-2006, 03:44 PM   #6
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vf1000ride,

Thanks very much for your help and the excellent pics. I now have an operational Ithaca Field Grade, Flues model, thanks to your help!

Mine was a little different, with both sear tangs held in place by a single pin rather than screws. Under the hammers were accessable, small set type screws that hold the firing pins in place.
Getting the hammers back in place, the springs compressed and the pin back in place was a real BEAR and took a little tool fabrication and a lot of ##***%%##??//!!!

But now she's back together. I loaded a couple of primers into empty shells and she goes "Bang!, Bang".

The front trigger fires the Full Choke barrel and the rear trigger fires the more open barrel. Is this the normal set up?

Now I need to get the loosw rib taken care of.

Thanks again,

Dillo
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Old 01-19-2006, 06:25 PM   #7
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Mine is the Minier model, slightly different but I didn't know how close for shure they would be. Glad to hear you have yours fixed up, they are great shooting old shotguns. My front trigger fires the right barrel which is the tighter of the two choke wise. I have tried sporting clays with mine and the pattern is too tight for it. It makes for a nice challenge though and any day shooting is better than being at work. Enjoy, have fun and be safe. vf1000ride
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