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Old 10-26-2005, 08:26 AM   #21
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I'll still spend my $$$ on Wenig sets through DGR.........
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Old 10-26-2005, 09:35 AM   #22
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Me too Highpower but, I heard Dean is running way behind, like about five or six months, and this was for a JCG rifle I was building so, based on what pics I've seen, I thought I'd try one. While it's nowhere near the quality of one of Dean's Wenig's(I have two), I was pleasantly surprised with what I got for the money.
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Old 10-26-2005, 06:46 PM   #23
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Again, thanks
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Old 11-01-2005, 09:57 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Retmsgt.
Me too Highpower but, I heard Dean is running way behind, like about five or six months, and this was for a JCG rifle I was building so, based on what pics I've seen, I thought I'd try one. While it's nowhere near the quality of one of Dean's Wenig's(I have two), I was pleasantly surprised with what I got for the money.
i just talked to DGR. they said there not behind on stock sets,that there shipping them in 3 weeks or so.
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Old 04-04-2006, 05:03 AM   #25
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Another thing you can do to keep your zero from changing is to tighten up the gas cylinder and then leave it alone.

Peen the splines where you must force the cylinder on and once you get it on and positioned correctly DON"T MESS WITH IT.

There is no need to remove it for normal cleaning.

Removing it will sometimes give you a different zero.

I found that just removing and replacing the gas cylinder can make as much as 5 clicks difference in zero at 100 yards.

I peen the splines and use red loctite on the splines. My gas cylinders do not work loose but I can get them off if I need to.

Also don't remove the rifle from the stock unless you have to. Sometimes it takes a few rounds for it to settle back in and shoot well.
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Old 04-04-2006, 05:48 AM   #26
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Cornbread makes an excellent point there. Don't take your rifle down to clean it. Especially the Gas-Cylinder.

When you remove the rifle from the stock and put it back in, it can take as much as fifty rounds for the receiver to shoot itself back into place where it's consistant.

What I did was buy a Lohmann's rifle-vise from Dick's Sporting goods($25.00). It's supposed to be for bench-shooting but I use it to clean with. I lock back the bolt, turn the rifle upside down, clamp it in the vise and clean the barrel, take it out and clean the chamber. Then I regrease if it needs it. I take them down about every 1,000 rounds for a complete cleaning.

When I fire after a complete cleaning I just plink for fifty rounds, then I check my zero and adjust if necessary.
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Old 04-04-2006, 06:21 AM   #27
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As a general rule, how often should one remove the op rod to clean the inside of the cylinder, and the end of the op rod piston?

I have always removed the gas cylinder and both hand guards in order to get the op rod off. I am hearing that the gas cylinder should be left in place unless dire circumstances require its removal. Can the op rod be removed (easily) without removing handguards, etc??

Thanks
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Old 04-04-2006, 06:29 AM   #28
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Yeah, it comes off pretty easily with the gas cylinder installed.

You bring up a good point - I live in a very humid area, if I don't pull the op rod & clean it after shooting, then the end of the rod that is covered by the gas cylinder will begin rusting within a few weeks. I have to pull the stock to clean the op rod. Anyone else have this problem, or have a suggestion about resolving it?
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Old 04-04-2006, 09:07 AM   #29
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Quag, if you've got a Dremel tool I have an answer. They sell a plastic wiretype brush that has the Plastic bristles pointed forward like a circular broom. just remove your lock screw, stick it in and turn it on. Those Plastic bristles will remove fresh carbon.
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Old 04-04-2006, 09:44 AM   #30
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That will clean the gas cylinder, but not the op rod (which is the part I'm having a problem with).
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Old 04-04-2006, 07:34 PM   #31
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A Testament!?

When Cornbread first posted this, I looked at it and I thought, "this looks like good advice". Since then, I have subjected three Rack and three Field grades to his suggestions. I have also recrowned the barrels on each. Comparing the groups pre-treatment to the after treatment, I have to say that I see an improvement, even with my skill off of a bag. It definitely did not hurt the accuracey. Still think it is good advice.
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Old 04-05-2006, 01:52 AM   #32
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Cornbread...thank you for your advice!

I see that I have made numerous mistakes with mine. I have a good supply of corrosive Korean and after shooting I take mine apart and scrub with windex and soapy water. I guess I'm more afraid of corrosion than having a really tight gas cylinder.

I would like to see some photos of a gas cylinder peening before I do mine.
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Old 04-05-2006, 05:10 AM   #33
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You still don't have to remove the gas cylinder to clean up after corrosive ammo.
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:02 AM   #34
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is it possable to get the op-rod off with the gas cylinder still on?? i thought the op-rod tip had to be cleaned just like the barrel needs to be done.
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Old 04-05-2006, 02:15 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornbread2
You still don't have to remove the gas cylinder to clean up after corrosive ammo.
Brother I wish you had a digital camera and could walk us through the process of taking a CMP SG/or other grade from rough to tight shooting.

I, for one would be very grateful for that.
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Old 04-05-2006, 04:55 PM   #36
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You do not have to remove the gas cylinder before you can remove the OP rod.
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Old 04-05-2006, 04:58 PM   #37
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Jmurman,
The step by step book you need is Walt Kuleck's "The M1 Garand Complete Assembly Guide, Vol. 2". It does exactly what you are asking about. Walt starts with a CMP M1 and walks you through the whole process setp by step with text and pictures including little warnings he calls pitfalls to be avoided. He even walks you through a national match trigger job. I do some things differently, but everything he describes will work and work well.
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Old 04-05-2006, 06:11 PM   #38
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I've been meaning to post a how to on peening the barrel splines, I guess this is as good a time as any. I just took the pics, I'll post them shortly.
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Old 04-05-2006, 06:27 PM   #39
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Cowboy,

That would be great. I have seen the instructions posted many times but it still is not clear in my mind.
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Old 04-05-2006, 06:39 PM   #40
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Peening the barrel splines.

Everyone has thier own method, this is what works best for me.

These are the tools I use. A brass and rubber mallet (any mallet will do, I just like using this light one) and the brass . A 1/16" punch and a 1/2" socket.
[img]http://www.hunt101.com/img/393291.jpg[/img]

First, remove the gas cylinder. You'll notice three groves in the barrel where the chrome plating. These grooves are the splines. They prevent lateral movement of the gas cylinder.
[img]http://www.hunt101.com/img/393292.jpg[/img]
Now get yourself a 1/2" socket. Placing the barreled reciever on a sturdy surface, lie the socket on the spline on top of the barrel. It should rest there on its own. You are going to have to hold it in place, though, as you hammer it.
[img]http://www.hunt101.com/img/393293.jpg[/img]
I like to have the front of the socket a little behind the front of the chrome. It makes getting the cylinder back on a whole lot easier.
[img]http://www.hunt101.com/img/393293.jpg[/img]
Take a hammer and GENTLY tap it straight down. The idea is that you are getting the top sides of the splines to bend inward a little bit. Go slow, its not hard to do, and it does not require much force.
Now you take a punch and tap the outside edges of the two lower splines.
[img]http://www.hunt101.com/img/393295.jpg[/img]
If its a really loose gas cylinder, start with the punch. Notice how it overhangs the edge of the spline. Starting where the socket would start, tap it the whole length of all three splines. You are just getting the metal started inward. Let the socket do the real work.
Periodically check your work by placing the gas cylinder back on. It shouldn't be super-hard to get on, but getting it on and off should require a some force. I think a properly fitting cylinder should need to be tapped on (hence the rubber/brass mallet). You can use a regular hammer with a block of wood if needed. You aren't performing major work here. You are dealing in small increments. But if its really loose, you will have to bang on it kind of hard. Don't worry, you'll catch on real quick. Once the gas cylinder is on, there should be no side to side movement of the gas cylinder, hence the front sight.

Remember, these are rugged rifles. Just go slow and easy. You can always peen them some more, its a lot harder to loosen it up.
Hope this helps,
Cowboy
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