Gun Hub

Go Back   Gun Hub > Battle Rifles > M1 Carbine

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-09-2004, 11:19 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 128
Loose magazines?

Any suggestions for a way to tighten up the mag well a bit? My M1c magazines will wobble front to back a little bit when inserted, and I think this is causing misfeeds.
CrazyJ is offline  
Old 12-09-2004, 11:52 AM   #2
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
It's probably not the mag well itself CrazyJ, but either the mags or most likely, the mag catch is worn. Check the tabs on the back of the mags to be sure they aren't worn and/or torn off. I have noticed LB and KSG marked mags don't have very good tabs on them, and are the cause of the problem you describe. If you have a good selection of mags and they ALL wobble, then it's the mag catch and/or spring & plunger not holding them into the well correctly. They are cheap to replace, and the mags should NOT wobble, but fit very tightly. The height in the mag well is critical for reliable feeding.
 
Old 12-09-2004, 01:13 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 321
My mags can wiggle, but I don't have any mis-feed problems. I have noticed though that when I chamber the first round if I don't let the bolt close on it's own it won't completely close. When I say close it still has a little less than an 1/8th of an inch. Could losse mags be the problem?
S.K.89 is offline  
Old 12-09-2004, 03:48 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 128
My FTFs are caused by stovepiping. I've got about 8 mags (came with the gun), so I doubt they're all identically damaged. I'll take a look at the mag catch parts.
CrazyJ is offline  
Old 12-09-2004, 06:13 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 256
Just as a quick check on mag catch, take out trigger housing and see if the catch will wiggle in the housing. I made a temporary fix on one of these with a piece of beer can, which I cut and shaped then pushed in to place with needle-nose pliers. I ended up replacing a badly worn housing. If these mags are old, and well used, try pinching the mag lips closer together. I think this is more likely the problem. IMHO
oneshy is offline  
Old 12-09-2004, 07:26 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: N.E.Ohio
Posts: 3,218
S.K.89, the problem you noted is the extractor not going over the case rim. That is perfectly normal. That is why you are supposed to let the bolt "slam" shut.
CrazyJ, your problem could be any of several things. It could be a weak recoil spring, a bad ejector spring or a partially plugged gas port. I'd bet on the springs. Either one is an inexpensive replacement and it won't hurt the carbine to have both of them replaced.
jimb16 is offline  
Old 12-10-2004, 07:44 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 128
It cycles fine on manual.... hadn't thought of the gas port. Heck, don't even know where it is. I'm usd to the AK where it's easy to spot everything
CrazyJ is offline  
Old 12-10-2004, 01:42 PM   #8
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Jimb is correct, I jumped to conclusions and answered your original question pertaining to the mag well. However, there could be several reasons why you are having this problem. The gas cylinder is hidden under the slide on the bottom side of the barrel, you'll have to remove the action from the stock, and then the slide to inspect it. Since your last post indicates you haven't stripped this weapon down and thoroughly cleaned it, I recommend doing this before proceeding. This may solve your problem.
 
Old 12-10-2004, 04:57 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 128
I haven't had any ejection problems, so I don't think it's the extractor.

The magazine catch appears to be in good shape. However, (trigger/mag well assembly removed from rifle), the mag catch does move front-to-back a bit with a magazine inserted. Perhaps I should try oneshy's suggestion of a shim inserted behind the magazine catch?

The gas piston appears to be OK. I used some CLP and sprayed it with some canned air to make sure it was clean. No visible physical impediments to moving, but I don't have the wrench to remove the nut, so I cannot be 100% sure on that. Can the gas port be cleaned in some other fashion?

The recoil spring feels much weaker than the recoil springs in any of my other guns (AK, Kahr P40, etc). I suspect this is at the least a contributing factor.
CrazyJ is offline  
Old 12-10-2004, 08:45 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 331
I would definitely recommend changing out the springs - Brownells has a kit made by Wolff (halfway down the page):

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...VIDUAL+SPRINGS

You might try Bill Ricca for a replacement mag catch and the gas piston tool:

http://billricca.com/prod02.htm
gman552 is offline  
Old 12-11-2004, 12:54 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: N.E.Ohio
Posts: 3,218
About the movement in the mag catch. I'm guessing that it is a later type with the M stamped on the tab. If so then the movement is correct. They are actually thinner than the earlier catches to help prevent jamming. As a result there is some front to back movement. That is normal.
jimb16 is offline  
Old 12-11-2004, 01:53 PM   #12
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Unlike the AK, the recoil spring on a Carbine is not very strong. Go ahead and try the shim as a temporary measure, and see if this solves the problem. If so, then you'll know it's the mag catch to mag relationship, and can go from there.
As gunsmiths and firearms repair persons, the first step is to isolate where the problem is occurring, or what parts are contributing to the problem. Once you have done this, then you can proceed to determining what part or parts are the problem, and whether they can be reapired or have to be replaced. Being familiar with how each part relates to the other helps alot, so you have to go through a process of elimination. While replacing the springs can't hurt, it's doubtful that this is your problem.
DO NOT remove the gas cylinder nut unless absolutely necessary, as it is staked and will probably strip when attempting to screw back in. If the piston doesn't move freely, put bore cleaner in a bowl and soak the entire gas cylinder. This will free it up and dissolve any carbon buildup you have.
Another temporary quick check would be to put tape on the front of the magazine to take up the slack, and see if this cures the movement problem. I still think this is where your problem lies, as it can cause the problem you describe. Hard to do this without examining the rifle though.
 
Old 12-14-2004, 06:22 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 128
Okay, got the shim in... 6 layers of soda can wall. Much less f-t-b wobble, but harder to insert a magazine as well.

Need to find time to get to the shooting range... (stupid cities)
CrazyJ is offline  
Old 12-14-2004, 06:43 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Alabama
Posts: 2,198
What is stovepiping?
skslover is offline  
Old 12-14-2004, 07:15 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 128
Spent round ejects. New round ends up angled too far up so that the nose is wedged in above the chamber entrance and the rear is held in place by the bolt and magazine.
CrazyJ is offline  
Old 12-15-2004, 04:05 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 256
CrazyJ, If it still happens the same way, don't forget to pinch the feed lips a little. Don't overdue it. Sounds like your mag catch is a lot looser than mine was. I just reread your post and noticed you put shim "behind" catch. Don't know if it will make any difference, but my housing was loose under the catch and that is where my shim went. That probably caused your tight mag insert. However, I think you're on the right track. Hurry and test fire that thing.
oneshy is offline  
Old 01-08-2005, 03:17 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 128
Finally got to test-fire.

1 30rd mag had >5 jams, mostly in the first 2/3 of the magazine. 1 30rd mag had 1 jam (feeding jammed nose low). 2 30rd mags had no problems. 2 10/15 rd mags had no feeding problems, but one had 1 jam the second time through.
I had at least two cases where I fired and the bolt failed to strip off the next round AT ALL (closed on empty chamber) and a couple of times when the bolt failed to quite finish going into battery.

The magazine shim came out at some point, and the loss was not noticed performance-wise.

All of the problems except the last one (10rd mag 1 jam) occured within the first 60 rounds of fire. The carbine actually heated to the point where the heat waves above the barrel were seriously distorting my view of the target... I've never seen that even with my AK!

New recoil spring probably needed... but what else?
CrazyJ is offline  
Old 01-08-2005, 06:40 PM   #18
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
If the 30 and 10 round mags are after-market, there probably is no helping them. If the bolt failed to pick up the next round, the follower either didn't push it up far enough or the mag is too low in the well. I would think the mag is at fault or it would tend to do it more often, like the follower is hanging up. Next time, test with USGI 15 rounders only, that will tell you if it's the rifle or the mags. At this point, I suspect the mags.
 
Old 01-08-2005, 07:08 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
shep854's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Birmingham AL
Posts: 1,902
Quote:
Originally Posted by skslover
What is stovepiping?
A "stovepipe" is when a spent round fails to fully eject, and is caught between the bolt and the chamber area at the case head,so that it sticks up "like a stovepipe".

This most often occurs with semi-auto handguns. Usually, the following round is partially chambered, so all you have to do is "wipe" the stuck case off with your hand, and the bolt/slide should return to battery. The problem is usually traced to weak ammo, springs, ejector, or a poor grip on the gun ("limp-wristing").
shep854 is offline  
Old 01-08-2005, 07:58 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 128
I thought stovepiping was when the next round being fed in ended up sticking up at an angle where it'd risen too far to feed into the chamber quickly...


I have no idea what kind of magazines these are.
CrazyJ is offline  
Reply

  Gun Hub > Battle Rifles > M1 Carbine


Search tags for this page
loose magazine m1 carbine
,

m1 carbine loose magazine

,
m1 carbine magazine feed lips fix
,

m1 carbine magazine is loose

,

m1 carbine magazine loose

,
m1 carbine magazine movement
,
m1 magazine catch problems
,
pistol mag loose in magwell
,
rifle round bent upward ftf loose in magazine

Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Loose Screws Audie Handguns 5 03-15-2008 01:48 PM
New LRB Tanker - Loose Op Rod? phillyd2 M14 5 03-23-2006 07:07 PM
op rod guide loose monster 14 M14 7 06-05-2005 06:00 PM
Loose Gas Cylinder O-UM12 M1 Garand 6 12-04-2004 05:57 PM
Op rod too loose? msmith_68 M1 Garand 2 08-08-2004 08:12 PM




Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © 2002 - 2014 Gun Hub. All rights reserved.