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Old 12-25-2006, 09:00 AM   #1
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Cold Blueing a soft steel barrel

Hey guys, what you do know about Cold Blueing a soft steel barrel for a CVA Muzzel loader? Any ideas?

Hot blueing will cost 80 bucks and price of the kit.

Cold blueing didn't work too well and all I can get is the powdery rust after a few weeks. This also includes using gun oil.

I just tried Blue Wonder and did a crap-tastic job on the barrel because the gloves left a residue the barrel so I got light spots and got a nice layer of rust after treating it with CLP oil and left it in garage that now has 100% hummity becasue of the rain.

Any ideas? This fun kit is becoming a Pain in the A**!
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Old 12-25-2006, 09:32 AM   #2
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I know it will never look like it was blued and it will offer no corrosion protection. I cold blued a shotgun once and that was enough for me.

I would rust blue it, or get some belgian blue from brownell's. or you can get the birchwood casey plum browning kit. the only ones I would consider.
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Old 12-25-2006, 09:53 AM   #3
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I've had very good luck cold-bluing mild steel such as airgun barrels, shotgun barrels, and .22 rifle barrels. I've used both Birchwood Casey blues and Brownell Oxpho-Blue (which I now prefer).

The metal must be clean, rust-free and carefully degreased (I use lacquer thinner). Apply the blue as per directions, neutralize according to directions (usually requires cold fresh water), rub out with steel wool, then degrease again and repeat as necessary. Expect to use AT LEAST three or four coats. More is better, but you reach a point of diminishing returns and I usually quit at four.

Oil using anything BUT WD-40 or equivalvent, which can remove the new cold blue.

On some steels, this works so well that you'd almost swear it was hot-blued. On others, you won't do much more than give the surface a sort of bluish-dark gray. Usually doesn't cost more than a little effort to try however.
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Old 12-30-2006, 06:14 PM   #4
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I reblued it again with Blue Wonder. Got the same problem with the hand print, even I never touched the medal after degreasing with Asatone. The hand print seems to be embeded in the medal becasue it's in the same place, even after a layer of Naval Jelly during stripping.

I used the blueing on a harder medal and it did a wonderful job. I think it's the low quality medal.

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Old 12-30-2006, 06:32 PM   #5
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A brown finish is brobably more appropriate for that rifle and is a lot easier to apply. For some brown finishes a final boil will turn them a very dark brown or even black.

Also, have you tried rubbing that "powdery rust" with fine steel wool and then repeating the process? Blueing is nothing more than a rusting process.

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Old 04-11-2007, 01:52 PM   #6
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I BROWNED my BP rifle and shotgun.

Tried the Plum Brown and had little success. Did some reading and went to a simple rust browning.

Cleaned the steel in water and lye after it was finished to what I wanted. Then used simple Kosher Salt (no iodine) and Ivory soap in water. Plunged the nipple hole and muzzle first. Wiped the barrel down with the solution and let it set overnight. Next morning steel wooled it down and put on another coat. Did this for a week and the barrel looked great, color was even and had that patina that you see on the old guns. As a final, wash the barrel throughly with hot water to remove the salt and oil well.

IMHO WD-40 is best for drying out spark plugs. I have never found a use for it on firearms.

I blued the lock and other metal parts in Salt Petre in a small cast iron pot. Gives a beautiful blue finish.
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Old 05-05-2007, 04:32 AM   #7
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I like Brownell Oxpho-Blue as well, I figure I'm trying to get a modern replica to somehow look like an antique, and it does. Keep the steel warm at all times, I just leave it on top of my oil burning furnace on paper towels.
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